tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-58984296299100841652024-03-17T07:22:42.438+00:00Not In MameArcade board repairs, the odd console, vintage computer and general retro tinkering.Ace`http://www.blogger.com/profile/10513051721033901373noreply@blogger.comBlogger122125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5898429629910084165.post-3324200848892561032024-02-10T15:02:00.001+00:002024-02-10T15:05:52.035+00:00Replacing Naomi 1 and 2 case fan.<p>A quick guide for replacing Naomi 1/2 motherboard case fans. You'll need a Gelid Silent 6 60mm x 15mm fan, a soldering iron, wire strippers / cutters and some tape or heat shrink sleeving.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX3EyMPoJ9KNwBrzlxu4DPIVr8tgS-7-mEEmZKeS2PDDvF2wL_UvMWg3paEZQUkXP8807R0ec2g0RDqmBn_fJAPu4XzHZZYJpuyZ6jo5SxhYssZjNkxqt6HE1a7hXxZeCGjL_1vV1vmwnNlkvO1xrb8diaBHua7wrF0nR-cbYOMCj3qwncDrHH3asFxYk/s1000/1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="880" data-original-width="1000" height="282" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX3EyMPoJ9KNwBrzlxu4DPIVr8tgS-7-mEEmZKeS2PDDvF2wL_UvMWg3paEZQUkXP8807R0ec2g0RDqmBn_fJAPu4XzHZZYJpuyZ6jo5SxhYssZjNkxqt6HE1a7hXxZeCGjL_1vV1vmwnNlkvO1xrb8diaBHua7wrF0nR-cbYOMCj3qwncDrHH3asFxYk/s320/1.jpg" width="320" /></a><br /><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">First desolder or cut the wires from the original fan as you'll want to reuse the original cable.</div></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbGpu_mS-43DEo4vHxhUfmuN1B8i1PGpBI6GHx4JxA06Y_fe6qqPIoi7zDiBE_NfK82hrl9k9IC3P6fOcDM0RxNPXjgwGp-SOXOJAxEv8rFjdG1SUmqkHpJ2sLUz8H8oN5HTJ4aZbA44pmJy-ly63R9P_NNOPPS1dSePzx1qBh8hC0-k2PEMQVDv7zIFc/s1000/2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="814" data-original-width="1000" height="260" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbGpu_mS-43DEo4vHxhUfmuN1B8i1PGpBI6GHx4JxA06Y_fe6qqPIoi7zDiBE_NfK82hrl9k9IC3P6fOcDM0RxNPXjgwGp-SOXOJAxEv8rFjdG1SUmqkHpJ2sLUz8H8oN5HTJ4aZbA44pmJy-ly63R9P_NNOPPS1dSePzx1qBh8hC0-k2PEMQVDv7zIFc/s320/2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p><br />The new fan is almost perfect apart from the cable that has all black wires, this means you have to be careful to wire it up correctly.<br /><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqCLQNu2ZOz2RDzRMCvP5rPkD9fz9KKrF32-rzpo4C-IVNMPValAfkdk2gyzkheGoWJwUvlYMoBka_H4a8hXZppDScVLJDK6tnQy3Qd5TGKVOIuJWBnMvy7ipxgNkR3NFDKtrynJRsUf72OAk9RFVPL7FuOFWWhOp8KR_PuYQ67UCL2pWRgF4ywaSG92I/s1000/3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="403" data-original-width="1000" height="129" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqCLQNu2ZOz2RDzRMCvP5rPkD9fz9KKrF32-rzpo4C-IVNMPValAfkdk2gyzkheGoWJwUvlYMoBka_H4a8hXZppDScVLJDK6tnQy3Qd5TGKVOIuJWBnMvy7ipxgNkR3NFDKtrynJRsUf72OAk9RFVPL7FuOFWWhOp8KR_PuYQ67UCL2pWRgF4ywaSG92I/s320/3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>The top wire is ground, the second middle wire is 12v and the bottom wire is sense that can be ignored. Cut ground first and leave about 2 cm of wire from the fan. Solder it to the old cable.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7R_m4f_ipaFw4KAM33eQaS4r5d-clVxU9irKZyVhm_XE2NqAv9g2KCAEWhe_M5fLLhRgehHzCHZM7lIgrhx06DnEGMKlo2fBLTragmQWGA3Ap6fc93F22FXvhJ9E7hX0X1NAvG196wwiS8Ft8IOlHJUAiNpXb23j_mmwzR-tRK5dgtD_d8rL02IaHlnU/s1000/4.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="860" data-original-width="1000" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7R_m4f_ipaFw4KAM33eQaS4r5d-clVxU9irKZyVhm_XE2NqAv9g2KCAEWhe_M5fLLhRgehHzCHZM7lIgrhx06DnEGMKlo2fBLTragmQWGA3Ap6fc93F22FXvhJ9E7hX0X1NAvG196wwiS8Ft8IOlHJUAiNpXb23j_mmwzR-tRK5dgtD_d8rL02IaHlnU/s320/4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p><br />Do the same again for the 12v red wire.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgULlYdxJK2_4kD7KtsneRQ8UUqi8XpEAuZAfvYOycZaNQtMBptamV9tl1sMsyT1Qq5fCGMzgp_cpF5ojZafPBrvhtpAF5VsPAImHxV7eS6w4iL-vQki1YluYcigxnP2oEOsI-sZufl6PKS0RS2hthOCEBDW3ydnnPY30-zzh2M9-gLzerzS0TfZ0B8PC4/s1000/5.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="918" data-original-width="1000" height="294" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgULlYdxJK2_4kD7KtsneRQ8UUqi8XpEAuZAfvYOycZaNQtMBptamV9tl1sMsyT1Qq5fCGMzgp_cpF5ojZafPBrvhtpAF5VsPAImHxV7eS6w4iL-vQki1YluYcigxnP2oEOsI-sZufl6PKS0RS2hthOCEBDW3ydnnPY30-zzh2M9-gLzerzS0TfZ0B8PC4/s320/5.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>Cover the exposed solder with tape or heat shrink sleeving.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj11WAotXyETMis86cDKAXYGLkjQRKwsHoR4iRg8C7WrlH2yEH5xFXw6dMfTdgjZ-PnjZWndSx0VvRvIWqKxoDhNiRWtDsBHlX9EW-1R48x9JJDKaN2JpEGIJqPfT0uNl8RRb-dEbeN8iJU98Oz0ggjmb-U8WRuyUjjlKH-L-ypzUfYUD9D2XQ6lPtzI-Y/s2000/6.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1594" data-original-width="2000" height="255" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj11WAotXyETMis86cDKAXYGLkjQRKwsHoR4iRg8C7WrlH2yEH5xFXw6dMfTdgjZ-PnjZWndSx0VvRvIWqKxoDhNiRWtDsBHlX9EW-1R48x9JJDKaN2JpEGIJqPfT0uNl8RRb-dEbeN8iJU98Oz0ggjmb-U8WRuyUjjlKH-L-ypzUfYUD9D2XQ6lPtzI-Y/s320/6.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>Fit the fan as shown so it blows hot air out of the case.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYpnJ1lxV6KAIZFz6ew0fG7GkAe-FoUdRUrmTxm0Lh5xeq2kXPCEGHy4vxsbYvxwCQ4gepZmj25wP3Ob37dHxBAKBoGK5U-j2FFMIeZNPv0yiVsT3jt89uoeQ-mQ-s1OPdUALvRjhrsOb-OtcVWflSo2M8eIv571JqghS_GcYzjPcCPUbEwuOeP6pilaw/s1500/7.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1018" data-original-width="1500" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYpnJ1lxV6KAIZFz6ew0fG7GkAe-FoUdRUrmTxm0Lh5xeq2kXPCEGHy4vxsbYvxwCQ4gepZmj25wP3Ob37dHxBAKBoGK5U-j2FFMIeZNPv0yiVsT3jt89uoeQ-mQ-s1OPdUALvRjhrsOb-OtcVWflSo2M8eIv571JqghS_GcYzjPcCPUbEwuOeP6pilaw/s320/7.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />Finally put the cable back into the filter board and you're done.Ace`http://www.blogger.com/profile/10513051721033901373noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5898429629910084165.post-37658485089579364202023-11-15T15:15:00.001+00:002023-11-15T15:15:59.303+00:00Naomi repairs - Stuck inputs and Error 4<p>I had a lot of six Naomi motherboards in for repair recently, mostly just replacing rams so nothing worth logging but one of them was interesting. It would boot but would not enter test and the dip settings were stuck on, I traced the dip switch traces to the other side of the board. To a Sega custom chip 315-6146, I decided to replace the ram connected to it first as that is was much easier to swap and thankfully it was just the ram, a common 62256 type.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiquPTl1sKmDSw-fTFtW5vc7X3yoru1iSLUJgpC808NOfXk8IJ8d-4-_GsKIfvLfdIXQSTtbQyZgH8B1Q7vUrF78OmTsc-rmFHj3KcRMTOfqUHLXO3T8W8328dIDl94-chMsvKwTW_7EbKojTQTtvaVye4rLy9rVnRGZy1YZAaIKW3qSt8G7deTWIaBHdE/s2112/ic46-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2112" data-original-width="2094" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiquPTl1sKmDSw-fTFtW5vc7X3yoru1iSLUJgpC808NOfXk8IJ8d-4-_GsKIfvLfdIXQSTtbQyZgH8B1Q7vUrF78OmTsc-rmFHj3KcRMTOfqUHLXO3T8W8328dIDl94-chMsvKwTW_7EbKojTQTtvaVye4rLy9rVnRGZy1YZAaIKW3qSt8G7deTWIaBHdE/s320/ic46-2.jpg" width="317" /></a></div><br />While playing with Naomi stuff I found that the Net Dimm board that I have owned and used for a good 15+ years was slightly faulty. It wouldn't return a serial number, this isn't usually a problem apparently because I haven't noticed an issue before, not until I tried to load Ikaruga and got error 4 that is.<br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifE30Y3CxtT8bavXaOOS9AHI4RcZa2B1GBdzqUp1MkO4_uoPzq4kJyt-_48LQm5ZaA6l-8t6zPE7LXvaBS9ekiJm5Q681dmeaSGVDjIG6_ZsKjc7kqqe_gXHbjAtcZ6jzAwiKSsBlEUgiaeT-Z83EptkcW22tG9mqvfff8lE4M-Sh9KEmKdBJzwJ_6dj8/s1427/error4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1427" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifE30Y3CxtT8bavXaOOS9AHI4RcZa2B1GBdzqUp1MkO4_uoPzq4kJyt-_48LQm5ZaA6l-8t6zPE7LXvaBS9ekiJm5Q681dmeaSGVDjIG6_ZsKjc7kqqe_gXHbjAtcZ6jzAwiKSsBlEUgiaeT-Z83EptkcW22tG9mqvfff8lE4M-Sh9KEmKdBJzwJ_6dj8/s320/error4.jpg" width="269" /></a></div><p></p><p>A google search brought up the exact issue, serial number not returned by Dimm board but not many people with the issue, I only found one forum post with someone else with the error. It doesn't look like they ever fixed it either.<br /></p><p>The serial number is stored on a tiny EEPROM on the bottom of the Dimm board at IC6S</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi9p7kBqppugFNOK05cRhkTmf0Thh2n_jcuMTy96ndGyhGbgYOlO8NwXs3ATi2RHgHj6sai7kXdWC0RiyzU31cB9Igxi3MicMmbeYmQE1MxVdHPQbeflGd5HIS8NgZAoPs2nmTezrBOEYLNHD1_yvwcGCcv7-4tWqkoqXrlkBT1hl8e3I4LZXNSaSKnRc/s2500/ic6s.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1897" data-original-width="2500" height="243" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi9p7kBqppugFNOK05cRhkTmf0Thh2n_jcuMTy96ndGyhGbgYOlO8NwXs3ATi2RHgHj6sai7kXdWC0RiyzU31cB9Igxi3MicMmbeYmQE1MxVdHPQbeflGd5HIS8NgZAoPs2nmTezrBOEYLNHD1_yvwcGCcv7-4tWqkoqXrlkBT1hl8e3I4LZXNSaSKnRc/s320/ic6s.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I took a replacement from a scrap board but a new 93C46A EEPROM programmed with the dump from mame would have also worked.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl4trIXmuT0foXglwcODgr13gE7Xsf3KSrNheZPXg5x-W_YC9LUqDOOUHz0iQwr9WSHrUKg0v55ewB_nsgWCQxORgJRNmPpP9yPNrYLv88Q4V5JG9x1cETOHmLcw45_ejuHfRo3JI8lgf2ESHJz9x8u7yQMo1zn7SsK0Ten9HETxnwyulzmCqodXTcqbQ/s1884/ikaruga.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1884" data-original-width="1200" height="423" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl4trIXmuT0foXglwcODgr13gE7Xsf3KSrNheZPXg5x-W_YC9LUqDOOUHz0iQwr9WSHrUKg0v55ewB_nsgWCQxORgJRNmPpP9yPNrYLv88Q4V5JG9x1cETOHmLcw45_ejuHfRo3JI8lgf2ESHJz9x8u7yQMo1zn7SsK0Ten9HETxnwyulzmCqodXTcqbQ/w270-h423/ikaruga.jpg" width="270" /></a></div><br /><p>That got her going.</p>Ace`http://www.blogger.com/profile/10513051721033901373noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5898429629910084165.post-57275155659168715412023-07-27T13:58:00.004+01:002023-07-27T14:01:43.378+01:00Sega Mega-Tech motherboard repair<p>Another Mega-Tech on the bench for repair, this must be about the sixth one I've worked on. They are always filthy so the first thing I had to do was clean it. The sockets also all needed to be replaced too like in previous Mega-Tech repairs.</p><p>When powered on I got nothing on screen and one of the Sony CXD1095Q chips was getting super hot. Replacing the Sony CXD1095Q with a nice new old stock one it powered up and worked on first power up displaying the cartridge list but on the second power up it was having trouble seeing the cartridges and only loading games from certain slots. The other CXD1095Q failed so I replaced that one too, this fixed the slots and loading issues.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTYEq6YplWWcf72OfRoeLYU5eXDM4NC-QPDh6Hz7NoGTMSpoIQbW0uUuNTfKL9WMxqHl-W6q-RfXSfLo4ENzIi4wvlS1z3YYf21jOM9Xd_3UlxpwJnI5QS9VZiwxfDnvRNuOvuG6BEsA3ASovl3h94NjxlXUaraT8F_Wjox76Y-6TvwqnhCiWl2-Z6PP8/s1500/sony.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1500" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTYEq6YplWWcf72OfRoeLYU5eXDM4NC-QPDh6Hz7NoGTMSpoIQbW0uUuNTfKL9WMxqHl-W6q-RfXSfLo4ENzIi4wvlS1z3YYf21jOM9Xd_3UlxpwJnI5QS9VZiwxfDnvRNuOvuG6BEsA3ASovl3h94NjxlXUaraT8F_Wjox76Y-6TvwqnhCiWl2-Z6PP8/s320/sony.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoSBUrpbPncc9CPNuWE0lK01EjjrXFiJVdgjOcOp5iQ3uk1xFnUFhJ29fvSQp6gEUa40HNvVINOhDCQY6JpRQ_5y8XXP-lbKMJ4bBn7G2Hco5KPyRmw0tzH8nBeezg_9l0dF35mY3AyGacxxyxXjISKW9-GUyQR76XJlwzttjKerJ8Z0yOeqas96HN_1o/s1200/mtss2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="930" data-original-width="1200" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoSBUrpbPncc9CPNuWE0lK01EjjrXFiJVdgjOcOp5iQ3uk1xFnUFhJ29fvSQp6gEUa40HNvVINOhDCQY6JpRQ_5y8XXP-lbKMJ4bBn7G2Hco5KPyRmw0tzH8nBeezg_9l0dF35mY3AyGacxxyxXjISKW9-GUyQR76XJlwzttjKerJ8Z0yOeqas96HN_1o/s320/mtss2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Now to plug in the main screen and see what's happening, I could see colours but no sync. Tracing out the sync signal it goes through a 74LS125 and to the Sega custom 315-5313. The 74LS125 input pin was shorted.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiteuLdSI7lzsnj8dbu6_j_xjT1-zm_GmEwBhyDDhZ131ZlIF_N0aGn4eZHzIS5L07vDCifL3Ib4ExSOjKodzNC0JnWmxnjCfW55KZ7L65bG10yX6SBzwJunoBiH_13KxjUrnEzSBMX6QYJpsOObhOEiiumA0INBa6QZVur6wyRkDkBLQc0JhmRQSwdMlw/s1803/74125-2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1803" data-original-width="1400" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiteuLdSI7lzsnj8dbu6_j_xjT1-zm_GmEwBhyDDhZ131ZlIF_N0aGn4eZHzIS5L07vDCifL3Ib4ExSOjKodzNC0JnWmxnjCfW55KZ7L65bG10yX6SBzwJunoBiH_13KxjUrnEzSBMX6QYJpsOObhOEiiumA0INBa6QZVur6wyRkDkBLQc0JhmRQSwdMlw/s320/74125-2.jpg" width="248" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYSjImJ30mB7WGpQacqQxNJTVl5fXMPIAsS_IpueVVeA5cKvwQh5y7NHBeSzZs0KwUSKSOU-M22F_grl0YenUQaTh34mmLAVO5cxv2IqOEjxGlGQBPEGRyfDkkr3CBsibGJf3SOnN_39cVSp9iMFN8m9R9oRStf-ZNN3xR1idR2U0hhY2oeisXgAe5Wz4/s1400/74125.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1396" data-original-width="1400" height="319" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYSjImJ30mB7WGpQacqQxNJTVl5fXMPIAsS_IpueVVeA5cKvwQh5y7NHBeSzZs0KwUSKSOU-M22F_grl0YenUQaTh34mmLAVO5cxv2IqOEjxGlGQBPEGRyfDkkr3CBsibGJf3SOnN_39cVSp9iMFN8m9R9oRStf-ZNN3xR1idR2U0hhY2oeisXgAe5Wz4/s320/74125.jpg" width="320" /></a></div></div><p>With the 74LS125 socketed and replaced there was still no sync output. Sadly the 125 killed the sync pin on the custom 5313 chip when it failed. Fortunately I have a Mega Drive console that I've used for parts already as it had a broken case and the 5313A chip is still on there. The A version is a later version but is pin compatible.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYLesNJFCGQkpEt5FGHf-fQ5FsJbjY6Pc-NXYwD6GVXiw8EVgSNll36WmcqYoec0gCkUhVuTtfcF0E7DpgN-peTufl3e7I2MThmiUd6jYBnFw67Le9lkq9lMP8au06din0ByMPloyjubQhVi1mj0q8MtD-b30qtn4mjsYN0xh__B2X7yVqwPWciMkwjFk/s1515/5313.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1515" data-original-width="1400" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYLesNJFCGQkpEt5FGHf-fQ5FsJbjY6Pc-NXYwD6GVXiw8EVgSNll36WmcqYoec0gCkUhVuTtfcF0E7DpgN-peTufl3e7I2MThmiUd6jYBnFw67Le9lkq9lMP8au06din0ByMPloyjubQhVi1mj0q8MtD-b30qtn4mjsYN0xh__B2X7yVqwPWciMkwjFk/s320/5313.jpg" width="296" /></a></div><p>Replacement 315-5313A fitted and I get a sync signal and a good image, the only remaining issue is I noticed on the all white Sega logo screen in Sonic the white was a little green looking. This again is a common issue with these boards where the transistors on the video output aren't equal, they all test fine but the only way to get a really balanced image (without adjusting the monitor) is to replace all three transistors with new ones, so that's what I did.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeJyIjkguwhgbQahnKq-e32eQH0Vr15iThda4SbXj7rQB8foZzURCWM-z-kdZJZBo_HvxLUWo580tbf0LuY5ET5dt10jnqfQ2b6cwOBLIatst6UiViwX4ghcvWEMxmEt7y8Zru7Vr3PcEGqxSAHFko6xhl5wNg-h586Lw6-EjOd5EYD7duXVFcLhu4P_o/s1200/sega.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="904" data-original-width="1200" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeJyIjkguwhgbQahnKq-e32eQH0Vr15iThda4SbXj7rQB8foZzURCWM-z-kdZJZBo_HvxLUWo580tbf0LuY5ET5dt10jnqfQ2b6cwOBLIatst6UiViwX4ghcvWEMxmEt7y8Zru7Vr3PcEGqxSAHFko6xhl5wNg-h586Lw6-EjOd5EYD7duXVFcLhu4P_o/s320/sega.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUUIYTO05lkFhl8HOCgEt_XzejUQLo4aNIM0ZPJBWLEBpFHdz2bS4Wg6grEcB2OnIConWbJNn8EbdafVWAyQyemQD0OYvRGG49uIzR6CwfDQK19UHAQQ_WsVVE5KHSTnBhKLx0aXWDLM9zTMx5xVLwKi-UV_Z635IFIIUUnBj8OVjX9mxEMsWnE7jgcOM/s1200/mtss1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="910" data-original-width="1200" height="243" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUUIYTO05lkFhl8HOCgEt_XzejUQLo4aNIM0ZPJBWLEBpFHdz2bS4Wg6grEcB2OnIConWbJNn8EbdafVWAyQyemQD0OYvRGG49uIzR6CwfDQK19UHAQQ_WsVVE5KHSTnBhKLx0aXWDLM9zTMx5xVLwKi-UV_Z635IFIIUUnBj8OVjX9mxEMsWnE7jgcOM/s320/mtss1.jpg" width="320" /></a> <br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div>The camera makes it look a little blue but it's perfect now. Repair complete.Ace`http://www.blogger.com/profile/10513051721033901373noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5898429629910084165.post-86776609184590105042023-06-29T16:27:00.002+01:002023-06-29T16:29:08.092+01:00Eprom programmer power supply upgrade<p>I have owned a lot of different programmers but the Dataman 48Pro (Beeprog) is by far my favorite as it's fast, reliable and usb!. I'd even argue it's better than the new version as this one allows the use of standard adapters for non dip stuff. The newest one is far more locked down and forces you to buy expensive adapters.<br /><br />It's great for the arcade hobby as it'll do oddball proms, pls153s etc, the only problem is it will some times come up with a warning about the power supply not being powerful enough and fail to burn some of these chips. That's because Elnec (Dataman) cheaped out and only included a 1amp power supply, a 4amp is what is needed to cover everything.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhppXeqr8czynj0CNASquCLevJc0SnusOvVSr2Q8o_yorfmeJfAqAgjqrX30AQx5LCJDh6LMgxRr7N_t9xzcctjkXqW97k9UvSLEvxA0y4dxjP_Hgg6jTtXKmnO6DKjZd9jIM1aeSye8KgqEtzf_AenzBPTH4KjnZA0ckMFouxEvN6a17hoYJOF7bf2UuI/s1800/dataman48.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1422" data-original-width="1800" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhppXeqr8czynj0CNASquCLevJc0SnusOvVSr2Q8o_yorfmeJfAqAgjqrX30AQx5LCJDh6LMgxRr7N_t9xzcctjkXqW97k9UvSLEvxA0y4dxjP_Hgg6jTtXKmnO6DKjZd9jIM1aeSye8KgqEtzf_AenzBPTH4KjnZA0ckMFouxEvN6a17hoYJOF7bf2UuI/s320/dataman48.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p>Why include a 4amp power supply when you can charge the customer another £100 for a 4amp one later. Well I'm not going to be paying that.</p><p>Thanks to Purity for sending me a picture of his original power supply from a Labprog+ which is the same as used on the 48pro. I also confirmed it with a meter but the pinout shown is correct.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCthyUQl8wl9GqXDVmtp9eMSsVyJaxI6eROq9n0eCStLEiFuKk5bnEhmCqAKdaPM5s78MTOhlhsnl0Zlli2yKxeA4odpfuDpi4RZLacTAhPBRtSYbWWFUdnnRDNIIY8fsFaW5ZHBGsbiFNhLG7ZBklqxWMT_TGDpQ4jRYFbr9qpzEiWRw7QCofoVZd2sQ/s1038/psu2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1038" data-original-width="800" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCthyUQl8wl9GqXDVmtp9eMSsVyJaxI6eROq9n0eCStLEiFuKk5bnEhmCqAKdaPM5s78MTOhlhsnl0Zlli2yKxeA4odpfuDpi4RZLacTAhPBRtSYbWWFUdnnRDNIIY8fsFaW5ZHBGsbiFNhLG7ZBklqxWMT_TGDpQ4jRYFbr9qpzEiWRw7QCofoVZd2sQ/s320/psu2.jpg" width="247" /></a></div><br /><p>So I needed a 15v 4amp power supply and a 6 pin mini din plug. A quick ebay search and I bought this old Laptop power supply for £5 and a plug for £2.50.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCU1MSLs79UcP_TTlhl7y-T9WrERRneeZ6-puI3FstNrbqbboe8GseC2NYwIs54paeg_xmKMlx0F9hbWUtsKDZ_zGZ5m6GrSRQdcolZ1ZN75ipayDZM3cP6pD5OR6EH2K-HsMTxZ2HH7FdBeBLPJO3hczYioBcTU1CMyOCXZY09Om6hweGB8ue_WI6M2k/s1516/psu.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1516" data-original-width="1000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCU1MSLs79UcP_TTlhl7y-T9WrERRneeZ6-puI3FstNrbqbboe8GseC2NYwIs54paeg_xmKMlx0F9hbWUtsKDZ_zGZ5m6GrSRQdcolZ1ZN75ipayDZM3cP6pD5OR6EH2K-HsMTxZ2HH7FdBeBLPJO3hczYioBcTU1CMyOCXZY09Om6hweGB8ue_WI6M2k/s320/psu.jpg" width="211" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> Soldered them together and I can now burn any prom without issue for the total cost of £7.50. 😀<br /></div>Ace`http://www.blogger.com/profile/10513051721033901373noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5898429629910084165.post-59381286832722978902023-06-26T20:41:00.001+01:002023-06-26T20:43:29.135+01:00Space Firebird (Bootleg) Repair - Part 2<p>I couldn't wait until tomorrow to finish this repair. 😆 Being a Nintendo board the first place to start with a sound issue of this era board is the 8035 MPU . I don't have one... and they're getting quite hard to come by now but I remembered I bought a bunch of 8039s for Donkey Kong repairs. The 8039 has more internal ram than the 8035 but that's not a problem.<br /></p><p>The 8039 brought the majority of the sounds back but no shooting sound. Using the audio probe on the op amps I could hear the shooting sound on one of the inputs but nothing on the output. Replacing the LM324 op amp and everything is now working.<br /></p>Ace`http://www.blogger.com/profile/10513051721033901373noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5898429629910084165.post-12256665886407377152023-06-26T13:15:00.005+01:002023-06-26T13:23:05.133+01:00Space Firebird (Bootleg) Repair - Part 1<p>Another Nintendo board for repair and the collection, I got this in a trade a good while back but have only just gotten around to making a jamma adapter and testing it. When doing a google search for a pinout a ukvac thread comes up where someone says that it's the same pinout as Phoenix, that isn't quite the case but more on that later.</p><p>When powered on I got an explosion sound and a starfield and not much else. There were a few dots and lines that were meant to be sprites. This turned out to be a bunch of bad 2101A rams on the video board, thankfully they're all socketed and I am able to test each one out of circuit in the Boardmaster. All but two failed, AMD branded.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3-pnwWJPb2xkhIfLjqmCpD5eHz-sNPgfpouaUXCae7R8Q3HztvOTq5l6OyJTI48xO5izHWBps6f3k8lMLibkBp_dQ5O-68bVi0QhgeGoPtX6xNH82HfMVpMK9yqkoqxo_q-HfjQtTq_nXvVSbdggR92meKx398I3h9hiLOTmRelv8CPW9X3tyuffEcOI/s1036/2101.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="510" data-original-width="1036" height="158" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3-pnwWJPb2xkhIfLjqmCpD5eHz-sNPgfpouaUXCae7R8Q3HztvOTq5l6OyJTI48xO5izHWBps6f3k8lMLibkBp_dQ5O-68bVi0QhgeGoPtX6xNH82HfMVpMK9yqkoqxo_q-HfjQtTq_nXvVSbdggR92meKx398I3h9hiLOTmRelv8CPW9X3tyuffEcOI/s320/2101.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p><br />I've had issues with AMD branded logic in the past too, maybe they should have just stuck to CPUs.😄<br /><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIF9tfMz9WPhVp98WUR8k8CXgHkNFuGMjIaNu0kFTwwQ7uL8OYYlTLHbyCIv2go2QF61mk8OLyI1GsxvV2_pGdGlYReo961WmEQRsVjbKSEp64RHKKERv7gCq460Gja9FVsbKmMW5tusrjqraIpuuTqS8cBt5MoUzC3z6Hsg_nOfStn2nMfasa47Cjl5w/s2000/2101-2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1465" data-original-width="2000" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIF9tfMz9WPhVp98WUR8k8CXgHkNFuGMjIaNu0kFTwwQ7uL8OYYlTLHbyCIv2go2QF61mk8OLyI1GsxvV2_pGdGlYReo961WmEQRsVjbKSEp64RHKKERv7gCq460Gja9FVsbKmMW5tusrjqraIpuuTqS8cBt5MoUzC3z6Hsg_nOfStn2nMfasa47Cjl5w/s320/2101-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>New RAMs fitted. This brought the sprites back and showed a new issue. All the bullets were on the very bottom of the screen under the player ship.</p><p>I went looking for counters on the video board, there's some very nice quality schematics for this board online which is a nice change from the usual no schematics or unreadable schematics.</p><p>Piggybacking didn't work but using a logic probe I could see the outputs on 74161 @ 4G were all shorted to ground, which also explains why piggbacking a good 161 on top didn't work.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC3p18ytVrm5h8rt84Z6ilYSf0XbLNvsUQeec6rZTSJOV4tLu44tG-jHKUSTnaK529ccDS1qS22xvkMwRhsiftFVGPpD5u3S4FO05i4OKPaeWbC86X1mEPUZwo92B-Od8QB-oAxcEzLgYdc4K5DrjsrVG_QmE16nUaF2jDsBiwrGrBtxKKVfYwHPyAb6k/s2000/4g.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="2000" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC3p18ytVrm5h8rt84Z6ilYSf0XbLNvsUQeec6rZTSJOV4tLu44tG-jHKUSTnaK529ccDS1qS22xvkMwRhsiftFVGPpD5u3S4FO05i4OKPaeWbC86X1mEPUZwo92B-Od8QB-oAxcEzLgYdc4K5DrjsrVG_QmE16nUaF2jDsBiwrGrBtxKKVfYwHPyAb6k/s320/4g.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Unusual brand of TTL on this board that I don't recognise which is usually a bad sigh but they work for now.<br /></div><p></p><p>That fixed the bullets issue, a very hard game to photograph as it turns out.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisURs8mSD04I9CYw0DcCJZc_pUXEo_9zOAE-V_zX5C4jcp-qn7QNhtJiwu3gGl7BFHUfg8m9lbFor1inlk7aMfexqhEhTGK8LzkOYQro-2_bicCaU_bbVjMk5AyvBVesCmJGuddVWs7QAn5HJKQrSc0hjf1csXRsTppI_954rQ-KIihvioMRVZcwU3smA/s1110/screen.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1110" data-original-width="800" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisURs8mSD04I9CYw0DcCJZc_pUXEo_9zOAE-V_zX5C4jcp-qn7QNhtJiwu3gGl7BFHUfg8m9lbFor1inlk7aMfexqhEhTGK8LzkOYQro-2_bicCaU_bbVjMk5AyvBVesCmJGuddVWs7QAn5HJKQrSc0hjf1csXRsTppI_954rQ-KIihvioMRVZcwU3smA/s320/screen.jpg" width="231" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> I took 40 pictures and that was the best of them.<br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">That's all for now, I'll have to return to it at some point to see why I only get explosion sounds and the rest of the time it's completely silent.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Here's the pinout.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5W9RMPdROxwird0dq1i9B9cxHgYHOZ1KqR--7vL-5VglvYq2acP-bD_tbf4rHaRS94wMDaGY6l5a2G0xBhPKZVK2NLjr0gTKvqNlxtywq2W1X-tWyicnOoPjSG8v9LcwosOBCFteKpDe1UegaCpZ_mPd-UzQsSMvoL9szsziFYGnVJwzzsbP3Y1ZSvAI/s535/pinout.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="452" data-original-width="535" height="270" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5W9RMPdROxwird0dq1i9B9cxHgYHOZ1KqR--7vL-5VglvYq2acP-bD_tbf4rHaRS94wMDaGY6l5a2G0xBhPKZVK2NLjr0gTKvqNlxtywq2W1X-tWyicnOoPjSG8v9LcwosOBCFteKpDe1UegaCpZ_mPd-UzQsSMvoL9szsziFYGnVJwzzsbP3Y1ZSvAI/s320/pinout.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This is not at all the same as Phoenix pinout, the controls and video are on opposite sides, you also need -5v for Space Firebird as it has its sound data stored on a 2708 eprom.<br /></div>Ace`http://www.blogger.com/profile/10513051721033901373noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5898429629910084165.post-51418412896577063952023-05-25T13:35:00.000+01:002023-05-25T13:35:08.778+01:00Nintendo Vs Super Mario Bros pcb repair<p>I got this Nintendo Vs board in a trade, someone had taken a heatgun to it at some point and done some damage to the board along with taking off a bunch of TTL, '104' capacitors and the eproms.</p><p>Once repopulated and fixing a blow out via caused by the heatgun damage I powered it on but the game did not run, just a solid green screen.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5tg-cFJtwCivxDK2qPufhNcf_EdJw0UYfsAQmtqqcnEv6TCUJZ539BhN4DqosEieXPEAco4Oc6yjIACYe1DdbwKSfTu-AUux3QJt8b9twfjpPvy_yYhF6KxRKDTT0tpjAP3SgS6a6wtSiiTs8eWXzj4RilKFV0RiWPEcqQT9s4CfCMIm9A3g5ImIr/s2000/mario4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="2000" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5tg-cFJtwCivxDK2qPufhNcf_EdJw0UYfsAQmtqqcnEv6TCUJZ539BhN4DqosEieXPEAco4Oc6yjIACYe1DdbwKSfTu-AUux3QJt8b9twfjpPvy_yYhF6KxRKDTT0tpjAP3SgS6a6wtSiiTs8eWXzj4RilKFV0RiWPEcqQT9s4CfCMIm9A3g5ImIr/s320/mario4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcQivhvYPPYg2BC9sr6_NXkQm8yPBdguxht_rfq6SegeoANDTMDdOJLem-aOTwQPaOC22K3HsLOmKt26JYlImPdVRL-hAsqpIJHsRvGQ0d6ecF5mUMzAzM6DL63eUA5Mh-W6SrSSOx79nnL8cTaSaml9cbqiZjn5DQjc7jx9c0KCc7ibpCzBEQ-znk/s2000/mario3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1929" data-original-width="2000" height="309" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcQivhvYPPYg2BC9sr6_NXkQm8yPBdguxht_rfq6SegeoANDTMDdOJLem-aOTwQPaOC22K3HsLOmKt26JYlImPdVRL-hAsqpIJHsRvGQ0d6ecF5mUMzAzM6DL63eUA5Mh-W6SrSSOx79nnL8cTaSaml9cbqiZjn5DQjc7jx9c0KCc7ibpCzBEQ-znk/s320/mario3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>It's not shown in the picture but the top part of the board had a standard cpu installed, with Vs Super Mario Bros you need a dummy cpu in this socket for the game to be run.</p><p>Thankfully you can get away without having a dummy cpu and just bridge two pins on the cpu socket instead.</p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizRupQ9r39UJkNFFcH7gHYufxO12b9BGQPkIqJEo3XFk2a8qfHc4kOGSP4tOoa_5eQs_ACQS70U25hZ-U7qFd3f4N-JRgltqxwFhir_xmWYIwpj5N2tNN-P_9fOFb2D253VveVwG3_gzdE6dj_51ov-9Y2gFuJuQnRJGZgqkgtDsp29NBCucrrszDR/s2000/mario5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="2000" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizRupQ9r39UJkNFFcH7gHYufxO12b9BGQPkIqJEo3XFk2a8qfHc4kOGSP4tOoa_5eQs_ACQS70U25hZ-U7qFd3f4N-JRgltqxwFhir_xmWYIwpj5N2tNN-P_9fOFb2D253VveVwG3_gzdE6dj_51ov-9Y2gFuJuQnRJGZgqkgtDsp29NBCucrrszDR/s320/mario5.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /> This got the game running but with some strange issues such as bad graphics, messed up scores, phantom coin inputs and other times it would run fine for 10-15 minutes.<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi194ph6l_Q1WLR9hzJLTW5RH9_Rl8JWzRZgf6KBjrRWiL3T1I3_tnqHnt7KiNplnT8MAyrRMqhBqn1Re8G7n-ddeVmmeTNlrK9Cw1w1MZeoGH1j8dIAFDk1_0eOQrAFJVtqnoxp9P-4PPI_TJu9VB-2YTT3xZaFAW_uqpDpLyJqPsh3KOJofxGofRI/s1200/mario.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="972" data-original-width="1200" height="259" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi194ph6l_Q1WLR9hzJLTW5RH9_Rl8JWzRZgf6KBjrRWiL3T1I3_tnqHnt7KiNplnT8MAyrRMqhBqn1Re8G7n-ddeVmmeTNlrK9Cw1w1MZeoGH1j8dIAFDk1_0eOQrAFJVtqnoxp9P-4PPI_TJu9VB-2YTT3xZaFAW_uqpDpLyJqPsh3KOJofxGofRI/s320/mario.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p><br />I was worried it was going to be an issue with trace(s) caused by the heatgun damage and I was going to have to check every connection in the area with a multi meter. Before all that I went through and checked all the ram and TTL chips first as I already knew the cpu / ppu were fine from trying them on another board.</p><p>The trusty boardmaster 4000 flagged a 74LS157 @ 5J as having a stuck low output on pin 7.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0TCIHUnbEDQEDNHTx1nEgccfquO1m5_2bFJqNLBt7BHQ0SDUz0MeXfieSBN4HaCYCahe6CpNml7Z9hEKXTkT51Hdxy_GBaPAB_Gayt1lhXBmvcwEF7LqA61fqrV5FpB0WE36PbmI9TPamoz5NBUi5ix_SaFbxszWbSZjcSBFzvIP2gnr274sPYiew/s1800/5j.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1760" data-original-width="1800" height="313" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0TCIHUnbEDQEDNHTx1nEgccfquO1m5_2bFJqNLBt7BHQ0SDUz0MeXfieSBN4HaCYCahe6CpNml7Z9hEKXTkT51Hdxy_GBaPAB_Gayt1lhXBmvcwEF7LqA61fqrV5FpB0WE36PbmI9TPamoz5NBUi5ix_SaFbxszWbSZjcSBFzvIP2gnr274sPYiew/s320/5j.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhasQiM-OiiW0HxbIrxpjGda7CcsukeVPUm5-Zmg4d4X86Zmsk8sZtSlzjov7g9F2mflwYDWoMrNVJCF6n7DGxhj7AYR7OtqmHA_ldcdu0xn3LEn_L5H6ZJZEnT9USbj6dM3uAkj3IGpzTflwX-jUD_04NF4Nu4hmimQmBiwDDlpr8XtYfKNP_TWFKd/s500/157.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="282" data-original-width="500" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhasQiM-OiiW0HxbIrxpjGda7CcsukeVPUm5-Zmg4d4X86Zmsk8sZtSlzjov7g9F2mflwYDWoMrNVJCF6n7DGxhj7AYR7OtqmHA_ldcdu0xn3LEn_L5H6ZJZEnT9USbj6dM3uAkj3IGpzTflwX-jUD_04NF4Nu4hmimQmBiwDDlpr8XtYfKNP_TWFKd/s320/157.jpg" width="320" /></a></div> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This was confirmed out of circuit, a new 157 fitted and it is now fully working.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgizLB-yr1izzWXmR93lyoc7eJ0bqWdGnHepqblUsRSwAbRHSk7F_fOEADP1Du7PH0OMEWqj_IqUC6J60fADoPjL2A1lAJnN_dnB9SXlNYrNTMc-0LQnF5GNx5SszFCzqyDeDkALXGOkGdGu-yl0EWp4douckUPJbKQZkWp2Tdwcw8KkVlFALp2VNEq/s1200/mario2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="947" data-original-width="1200" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgizLB-yr1izzWXmR93lyoc7eJ0bqWdGnHepqblUsRSwAbRHSk7F_fOEADP1Du7PH0OMEWqj_IqUC6J60fADoPjL2A1lAJnN_dnB9SXlNYrNTMc-0LQnF5GNx5SszFCzqyDeDkALXGOkGdGu-yl0EWp4douckUPJbKQZkWp2Tdwcw8KkVlFALp2VNEq/s320/mario2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixubaWnc7BmDG2gCnECZX5r-kh8_PMRsyq9QZaljiArUGwUt-Hzowh4KVVtQ620UUTBXNExziwdmiyCxdUvvmGRFGpJjsTcQFoIst92zDYAkThpBTlFZrDiCEm5olmyKC8DyJ8UQoR4BYkSy_dzkzEV10AJ8FqgG-k0XhhWK2lgMZz8r_-iqQbSVPm/s2000/mario6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1379" data-original-width="2000" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixubaWnc7BmDG2gCnECZX5r-kh8_PMRsyq9QZaljiArUGwUt-Hzowh4KVVtQ620UUTBXNExziwdmiyCxdUvvmGRFGpJjsTcQFoIst92zDYAkThpBTlFZrDiCEm5olmyKC8DyJ8UQoR4BYkSy_dzkzEV10AJ8FqgG-k0XhhWK2lgMZz8r_-iqQbSVPm/s320/mario6.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Ace`http://www.blogger.com/profile/10513051721033901373noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5898429629910084165.post-73784649400617615192022-11-28T15:20:00.004+00:002022-11-28T15:27:04.112+00:00Early Donkey Kong with different colour palette<p>I picked up a couple of Donkey Kong 4 stack pcbs for repair, these are the type typically found in cocktail cabinets. The repairs weren't all that interesting typical stuff for DK boards (bad sockets, bad 8257 resulting in missing sprites, bad fujitsu TTL).</p><p>What I did find interesting is that one of them is a very rare and early TKG1 revision Japanese version that even predates the Radarscope boards that were converted to Donkey Kong.</p><p>I suspect there was a small run of boards made to put out on location to see how well the game performed before Nintendo invested too much money into the game. They wouldn't want another Radarscope on their hands where they got stuck with boards and cabinets they couldn't sell.<br /></p><p>It has the original version of the game which has the levels in a different order, the ladder cheat and allows you to save long names during high score saving, the colour palette is also a little different. It is also a bit more standardized than later versions as it outputs regular video that isn't inverted and there's an on board amplifier for the audio which is usually on a pcb attached to the monitor.<br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF4adUGoIiJFCWb4HdylRIjj0gVw2xMWc-7gsEfHe8HkCJPm-32WEmdQRoLPetA60LMoRsBD0LuCa5lIIlrQyh0DSrMoTSy2CWvNAX8_MadNOEeAutpq5cilp7P0rU7DbnqLwKumN7eo9YAcqt1IICSKZp-iqHo7raFXprFqKGgzgT5LqLJpcT7DLB/s1000/dkproms.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="792" data-original-width="1000" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF4adUGoIiJFCWb4HdylRIjj0gVw2xMWc-7gsEfHe8HkCJPm-32WEmdQRoLPetA60LMoRsBD0LuCa5lIIlrQyh0DSrMoTSy2CWvNAX8_MadNOEeAutpq5cilp7P0rU7DbnqLwKumN7eo9YAcqt1IICSKZp-iqHo7raFXprFqKGgzgT5LqLJpcT7DLB/s320/dkproms.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p>The proms have hand written numbers, someone could argue that the proms are simply bad or from another game but as another board was found with the exact same 'off' colours (onecircuit on YT has a video) I think that confirms that originally Donkey Kong was released with these colours and Nintendo changed them later before the TKG2 boards were shipped.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYmsjzMnGY_kdgpGt0hP8thGqwN3hK2agSU_jjm3_KjEpWwoAUZ6CBWpui7mImxH_tt3u3qBP0yo8BWVDtuUobKGjc9JUHdO3M3RdZMckNulGDr1cDjWF6vKcpTAxOPbD3kMsJni9nUUtjOd2ZJuZCC41W2fyrE96b5FqJRYUBrhciNFqkBa3scMgw/s1000/dk3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="819" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYmsjzMnGY_kdgpGt0hP8thGqwN3hK2agSU_jjm3_KjEpWwoAUZ6CBWpui7mImxH_tt3u3qBP0yo8BWVDtuUobKGjc9JUHdO3M3RdZMckNulGDr1cDjWF6vKcpTAxOPbD3kMsJni9nUUtjOd2ZJuZCC41W2fyrE96b5FqJRYUBrhciNFqkBa3scMgw/s320/dk3.jpg" width="262" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl2Spx8uLKvptuftBjBEA3ElalbXkBrbQrZDC61gg-bF8rXPM6PDih_PYsr3hbXNgQwo3XYwRjdsY3aHJEmGz1HRbP0nIu0Sq6LYeEICR041HTu3yF_Uva8JTjTs55lvIJvnblJl0a8tZKBsjtL3yShleiqlooNNiPHofrHMN761jrwpztw051AQ6K/s1000/dk2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="776" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl2Spx8uLKvptuftBjBEA3ElalbXkBrbQrZDC61gg-bF8rXPM6PDih_PYsr3hbXNgQwo3XYwRjdsY3aHJEmGz1HRbP0nIu0Sq6LYeEICR041HTu3yF_Uva8JTjTs55lvIJvnblJl0a8tZKBsjtL3yShleiqlooNNiPHofrHMN761jrwpztw051AQ6K/s320/dk2.jpg" width="248" /></a></div><p>It's not too obvious from these pictures but a lot of the colours are lighter shades, especially Donkey Kong who is a much darker brown in all other versions of the game.</p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxXSELFx40FQ5njv42tPPjI_wCxHHtEGALgcscTBwmLO7II96Q862J_BZpvo3LdTlc6JYOfECqjoYohUIOK5i7p7OvB1CfmJuaCBUZnQfSDlxfgkWDoeDkp5Up4nMbXJsNmaKJJItI1SGy9ijfY-o_V6WQkULucWf-T-P6cpxGHcf5nScmEJw9Nb-P/s1000/dk.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="849" data-original-width="1000" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxXSELFx40FQ5njv42tPPjI_wCxHHtEGALgcscTBwmLO7II96Q862J_BZpvo3LdTlc6JYOfECqjoYohUIOK5i7p7OvB1CfmJuaCBUZnQfSDlxfgkWDoeDkp5Up4nMbXJsNmaKJJItI1SGy9ijfY-o_V6WQkULucWf-T-P6cpxGHcf5nScmEJw9Nb-P/s320/dk.jpg" width="320" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I could only find two other examples of this board online but both have this Kyodo sticker on the sound board.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I don't think there's any way to easily replicate the colours in mame as the proms aren't actually read by mame but for the sake of archiving the proms I've uploaded the dumps <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YyFb-sj_D3hwkTC3ssfIa0MYsAkRETvS/view?usp=share_link" target="_blank">here</a>.</div>Ace`http://www.blogger.com/profile/10513051721033901373noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5898429629910084165.post-15014746909030213582022-10-16T23:20:00.009+01:002022-10-17T00:06:41.911+01:002 years went fast..<p>Not much to report, I haven't got many repairs done in the last 2 years. Starting to get back into it now, I might post some repair logs... I see the only comments I got was due to broken links, I have switched to using a google drive so hopefully that's more reliable.</p><p>For some reason the large collection of pdf manuals and schematics that were hosted at <a href="http://www.jammarcade.net">jammarcade.net</a> are gone and it looks like the majority of them haven't made it to <a href="http://wiki.pldarchive.co.uk">wiki.pldarchive.co.uk</a> either. So for now at least I've stuck what I have on my google drive.</p><p> </p><p>The download link is in the top right hand corner, I don't have all of them, not even close. What's there are mostly ones I needed to use myself, there are a couple that I don't believe were ever hosted any where though, and some I cleaned up myself so have a browse. 😇<br /></p>Ace`http://www.blogger.com/profile/10513051721033901373noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5898429629910084165.post-24441275443725462022020-12-01T14:00:00.007+00:002020-12-02T10:36:12.820+00:00Sega Mega-Tech pcb repair<p>I wasn't planning to log this one which is why there aren't any before pictures but there turned out to be quite a lot wrong with it.</p><p>First thing I had to do was clean it as it was filthy, powering it on just gave a black screen. On closer inspection all the sockets needed to be replaced as they were badly corroded.</p><p>This got the top screen to work but the games weren't listed or running. This is usually down to bad Sony CXD1095Q chips, I ordered a couple from aliexpress and replaced both of them. This fixed the games not loading / displaying issue but it also revealed new problems.</p><p>The graphics were missing and just displaying noise and blocks, this was down to the two video drams that again I had to order. I found some nice new old stock M5M4C264AL-12 on ebay which are the same type and speed rating as the originals.</p><p>Now the games were playable but I noticed certain sounds were missing, 'Sega' and the ring collecting sound in Sonic were missing along with a lot of other sounds. This was due to a bad YM2612 which thankfully I had some spares on hand and didn't have to wait a third time.</p><p>I also noticed the red output on both screens was quite weak, especially on the main screen. This was due to faulty and leaky transistors, replacing them fixed the problem.</p><p>That looked to be everything but I found one final fault, about half the dip switches weren't working. Replacing them with new ones fixed the problem and the board is finally 100%.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlT-g7OZoHMlXknaonRxOTtEcD4iPhbpT18k0s6xYlTBBdNYq3N1a2qgHslHjYiR8j3GCC_sb-K16FDFxWwYhKhv6WfAV2eKvxMNsIXt06khQqlUz2TUUMaDIQhif9ib5kLKIrEQ3q8sM/s1000/mt.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="828" data-original-width="1000" height="331" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlT-g7OZoHMlXknaonRxOTtEcD4iPhbpT18k0s6xYlTBBdNYq3N1a2qgHslHjYiR8j3GCC_sb-K16FDFxWwYhKhv6WfAV2eKvxMNsIXt06khQqlUz2TUUMaDIQhif9ib5kLKIrEQ3q8sM/w400-h331/mt.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2S5U33gQDTSA0xmVPyb1tGET3y4lmAdmfOaZkMPJKjItoL7D7HOgL1kVX6QBK9zE8A2-LNkgpKuJ7s_u8yNmM1PDihm8mqCOSlzQANjWBHBMpz9ZMn-J1zy2k4WTr4vLSbcAYRsVRuE4/s800/mt2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="592" data-original-width="800" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2S5U33gQDTSA0xmVPyb1tGET3y4lmAdmfOaZkMPJKjItoL7D7HOgL1kVX6QBK9zE8A2-LNkgpKuJ7s_u8yNmM1PDihm8mqCOSlzQANjWBHBMpz9ZMn-J1zy2k4WTr4vLSbcAYRsVRuE4/s320/mt2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3euC2z6yawNW-Wm59W5XKnEdFjPGSQgRsNFZzE3q2j08K6BE8X_pGedhg6VFAQRlhTOuDCENtodJja7m4VlBxz0ZIBo6RF_pEdt6dWFuOkpr8mTOP-_q5-gHPRyStWuNuhVmwi1L9BA4/s800/mt3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="605" data-original-width="800" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3euC2z6yawNW-Wm59W5XKnEdFjPGSQgRsNFZzE3q2j08K6BE8X_pGedhg6VFAQRlhTOuDCENtodJja7m4VlBxz0ZIBo6RF_pEdt6dWFuOkpr8mTOP-_q5-gHPRyStWuNuhVmwi1L9BA4/s320/mt3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div>Repair complete.<br />Ace`http://www.blogger.com/profile/10513051721033901373noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5898429629910084165.post-58653339863805290222020-07-31T12:08:00.011+01:002020-07-31T12:16:24.799+01:00Atomiswave fan upgrade<div>I picked up this Atomiswave motherboard in a recent trade, I've been after one for years as I had a Metal Slug 6 cartridge (bootleg) that I haven't been able to play.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh82ig2_hLxfxZOn7pvN0hrkXj64dX0O1Y3wUHQGrEtfpjTiwg-tRwQm3rN0MlXGrd8qJpvyx4L_oiaCRV0Ti06xr8fhm9TqMXsuxmuAvJtDPPYGeuO2Y15IwDRso5h71HeLZHHjKGEmnY/s1000/atom.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="760" data-original-width="1000" height="311" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh82ig2_hLxfxZOn7pvN0hrkXj64dX0O1Y3wUHQGrEtfpjTiwg-tRwQm3rN0MlXGrd8qJpvyx4L_oiaCRV0Ti06xr8fhm9TqMXsuxmuAvJtDPPYGeuO2Y15IwDRso5h71HeLZHHjKGEmnY/w410-h311/atom.jpg" width="410" /><br /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It worked great but the original fan was screaming and very distracting.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhudqSI9V7xa7oBuMJYFCjobvfaO08JUmW5HJaRAsaWKIO6YK67WEUdn9aTy8Qnk0Z6eLPcITmRHfBnVvrjujqMNmTmWhbVINgnD2S9XSnFKdCnsDOgf7dumfWjoZce-YHTJt9g4qU2Ymw/s1000/origfan.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="572" data-original-width="1000" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhudqSI9V7xa7oBuMJYFCjobvfaO08JUmW5HJaRAsaWKIO6YK67WEUdn9aTy8Qnk0Z6eLPcITmRHfBnVvrjujqMNmTmWhbVINgnD2S9XSnFKdCnsDOgf7dumfWjoZce-YHTJt9g4qU2Ymw/w410-h234/origfan.jpg" width="410" /></a></div><div><br />I used to get some nice silent red 40mm fans from ebay for CPS2 motherboards, this would have been perfect as it would have matched the Atomiswave case. They're no longer available though so I had to find something else, I ended up settling with this one.<br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge8XEo81V0DQetBz_8f4FOA7e0FoS5KO3MzaOvcu_2eNm3HUELbxwr8wUMvwOmKG-Sfsbzntt6WYFtD6G8MukuU1TVja2rWa1iAz94zwF6Yl0CUWQXGu9CUo0C-Hb5N8sU6PJRmYNYr5Q/s1292/fan.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1292" data-original-width="1000" height="512" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge8XEo81V0DQetBz_8f4FOA7e0FoS5KO3MzaOvcu_2eNm3HUELbxwr8wUMvwOmKG-Sfsbzntt6WYFtD6G8MukuU1TVja2rWa1iAz94zwF6Yl0CUWQXGu9CUo0C-Hb5N8sU6PJRmYNYr5Q/w396-h512/fan.jpg" width="396" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Noiseblocker Black Silent XM-2, it is very quiet still moves some air and most importantly was cheap (£7 posted). There is an MX-1 version too which is even quieter but it doesn't move much air so I wouldn't recommend it. The XM-2 is very quiet to the point you won't hear it during game play or if you have the motherboard installed in a cabinet.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcccSC18CHO-GfkTbT3YeOphL7HZZv5BZAF2PaVuLEpM9VIlAGD-l5gmoi68bDIxx4iWdO_ZrD0A7nLjS82Jyw7XxxSYKwPuQV_kYY9rRzMX3tdUc8NFcb6d-vIO16EhZT7D2_aayS9EQ/s1000/fan3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="583" data-original-width="1000" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcccSC18CHO-GfkTbT3YeOphL7HZZv5BZAF2PaVuLEpM9VIlAGD-l5gmoi68bDIxx4iWdO_ZrD0A7nLjS82Jyw7XxxSYKwPuQV_kYY9rRzMX3tdUc8NFcb6d-vIO16EhZT7D2_aayS9EQ/w512-h298/fan3.jpg" width="512" /><br /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">As with most things it's not just a simple case of screwing and plugging it in, you'll need to take the original cable and splice it with the new one as the connectors are different.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The third yellow wire on the original fan feeds ground back into the board from the black wire, since the new fans white wire is for sens this won't work and will cause your board to lose sound.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">What you have to do is also bridge the second and third pins on the motherboard with a solder blob (this is also covered on arcade-project forums).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0gQsi2KZYCZU53ui-qOEmkGeAcqY4eNjqlsddfuDYoxXhitaDBEx4cvrHCqwi9JcmKjcPGH4Bw3uSobjYUKriCHo6nXKfvoLu13fKpkPIVzfk7BlbcoE2Gzmm-kACDfTBy0A_5jaNj5o/s1000/fanheader.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="762" data-original-width="1000" height="390" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0gQsi2KZYCZU53ui-qOEmkGeAcqY4eNjqlsddfuDYoxXhitaDBEx4cvrHCqwi9JcmKjcPGH4Bw3uSobjYUKriCHo6nXKfvoLu13fKpkPIVzfk7BlbcoE2Gzmm-kACDfTBy0A_5jaNj5o/w512-h390/fanheader.jpg" width="512" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcccSC18CHO-GfkTbT3YeOphL7HZZv5BZAF2PaVuLEpM9VIlAGD-l5gmoi68bDIxx4iWdO_ZrD0A7nLjS82Jyw7XxxSYKwPuQV_kYY9rRzMX3tdUc8NFcb6d-vIO16EhZT7D2_aayS9EQ/s1000/fan3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div><div>That's it, one quiet Atomiswave.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhekOXZsjD1rNgs1RpPaf1fAGc7T_EljYOuApx51sQtWqX2LBTiJlgo4WZ0O8sOUMrc94QCUqDx8S7WAtPwkn8vnBL3LDtv5YMQIZO7Io7q_S-QeiSG2o690nVVg3mJsTBfc8GPYgKwMqI/s1000/fan2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="497" data-original-width="1000" height="254" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhekOXZsjD1rNgs1RpPaf1fAGc7T_EljYOuApx51sQtWqX2LBTiJlgo4WZ0O8sOUMrc94QCUqDx8S7WAtPwkn8vnBL3LDtv5YMQIZO7Io7q_S-QeiSG2o690nVVg3mJsTBfc8GPYgKwMqI/w512-h254/fan2.jpg" width="512" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Now to try and track down some more cartridges.<br /></div>Ace`http://www.blogger.com/profile/10513051721033901373noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5898429629910084165.post-69391863319245878412020-07-15T14:26:00.003+01:002020-07-15T14:28:17.029+01:00Blood Bros pcb repairThis one was a real headache, it was completely dead with nothing on screen and no sound. After going down many different rabbit holes I checked the previous work that had been done which is the first thing I should have done.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS7D9ukdz1Ut3in72FtRMeIgMV34bTFdEAkGMZS0zv1JdsUZd2kwtQmjP6wwke6Tqm__LhMC6ibeEXMsrtL2sqjr7eB1IeN9MW5pn3du_JhQLCBHzcEJT3elC7GDAOzfBVKQGywUMIjn8/s1600/bloodbros.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1217" data-original-width="1500" height="257" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS7D9ukdz1Ut3in72FtRMeIgMV34bTFdEAkGMZS0zv1JdsUZd2kwtQmjP6wwke6Tqm__LhMC6ibeEXMsrtL2sqjr7eB1IeN9MW5pn3du_JhQLCBHzcEJT3elC7GDAOzfBVKQGywUMIjn8/s320/bloodbros.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The 74LS04 at U071 had been socketed after removing the socket I could see quite a bit of damage, including the trace from pin 11 to 13 being broken.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrPPFHj6tX_N08MM2AmjI18NjvgOpopHTyAKd-P6GKPA5lFwUcZ4661EwjbBkQqDpzeJU88iWpYkE6wsHjf1UMnKfUJOHXysEaGsm3E2uUC-zYQNBZm442_kaPW6WG-O7pV5SLXzm8RgQ/s1600/bloodbros2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1158" data-original-width="1500" height="247" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrPPFHj6tX_N08MM2AmjI18NjvgOpopHTyAKd-P6GKPA5lFwUcZ4661EwjbBkQqDpzeJU88iWpYkE6wsHjf1UMnKfUJOHXysEaGsm3E2uUC-zYQNBZm442_kaPW6WG-O7pV5SLXzm8RgQ/s320/bloodbros2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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After patching the bad trace it would finally power up and display something, but there was no sync and no sound.<br />
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The sync issue was fixed by reflowing the SEI0200 custom chip.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNZWQXnOYo6RSUQUhMPGolfKKg174VfE6_3Wu9_unof91mfOf6UaKkp0D1vwINJYKJlx-ldA-Uq2MDFWlLGVjOEu-AsROWJpNIEO_yRhIVTRjfEecHlhtXa9QJ3SXVAJH23C0NaklrmF8/s1600/bloodbros3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1185" data-original-width="1500" height="252" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNZWQXnOYo6RSUQUhMPGolfKKg174VfE6_3Wu9_unof91mfOf6UaKkp0D1vwINJYKJlx-ldA-Uq2MDFWlLGVjOEu-AsROWJpNIEO_yRhIVTRjfEecHlhtXa9QJ3SXVAJH23C0NaklrmF8/s320/bloodbros3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
I also noticed the LS04 at U053 had been replaced with a HC04, it may have been okay to use a cmos chip here but I replaced it with the proper LS04.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBkXMAl61zy-K2fiZEdM7kTfblyv0MkCFG8cMghLU5sYQym0b_NRlV8AE6qKdSRi6Dz3SRf97oIgs38O65_xba8KhP1VIVWqDETQfWC4PHo4oudIYFFxan31CH1VgaN7NzdKuiY7vb-EM/s1600/bloodbros4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1301" data-original-width="1500" height="277" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBkXMAl61zy-K2fiZEdM7kTfblyv0MkCFG8cMghLU5sYQym0b_NRlV8AE6qKdSRi6Dz3SRf97oIgs38O65_xba8KhP1VIVWqDETQfWC4PHo4oudIYFFxan31CH1VgaN7NzdKuiY7vb-EM/s320/bloodbros4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The only issue remaining was the lack of sound and the coin inputs not working. These are linked as the Z80 wasn't running which is the sound cpu and for whatever reason seibu also used the Z80 for the coin inputs.<br />
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The main sound eprom was bad but after replacing it the cpu still wasn't running.<br />
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I next desoldered the Z80 and fitted a socket so I could hook up the Fluke 9010a and also test the cpu, the cpu was fine.<br />
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The fluke was reporting 'Data bits 0 tied' but tied to what? usually it will say ground, 5v or another line. According to a cource notes fluke pdf document I found online some combinations of shorts or when it's multiple lines the fluke cannot always identify them and cannot give you any more details.<br />
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Checking with a multi meter I wasn't able to find any shorted lines, I lifted the D0 pins on various chips and wasn't able to find the issue. I just had to start pulling and socketing stuff directly connected to the data bus after pulling the M6295 pcm voice chip the bus test on the fluke passed.<br />
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I have seen these fail quite a bit on CPS1 motherboards but never like this where it kills the data bus. It looks like they are getting very hard to find now too. A couple of sellers in China have them but they look remarked so who knows what they really are. Luckily I had a couple of working ones in my spares drawer pulled from scrap boards.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD8BXTa84t119r9tD5Dcy9JFNACGdKGKocli3Jkl2Ar1I3BzTu7VA2BAcrwB1PHGUL8O3cFjVBZDjCziVjvuZecMUG2_x7yuPkZeIoRjmBaGRytwpccvmI8Rg_C-v7_1DY4HNbwkA3UnM/s1600/bloodbros6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1103" data-original-width="1500" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD8BXTa84t119r9tD5Dcy9JFNACGdKGKocli3Jkl2Ar1I3BzTu7VA2BAcrwB1PHGUL8O3cFjVBZDjCziVjvuZecMUG2_x7yuPkZeIoRjmBaGRytwpccvmI8Rg_C-v7_1DY4HNbwkA3UnM/s320/bloodbros6.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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M6295 fitted and the sound and coin inputs are now all working.<br />
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Repair complete.Ace`http://www.blogger.com/profile/10513051721033901373noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5898429629910084165.post-23528491294819834152020-06-05T11:00:00.001+01:002022-10-16T23:23:55.270+01:00Super Off Road (Ivan Ironman Stewart's) repair and notesA Super Off Road board came in for repair, the first thing I had to do was make up a basic power and video harness to test it. It was completely dead, a look over the board revealed it was two non working pcbs (different serials) from different sets connected together with a big X in marker on each.<br />
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It had also been stored in a damp place so it had some corrosion and every socket on the board needed to be replaced, a lot were single wipe rubbish that would have to be replaced anyway. Apparently Atari made these boards or at least assembled them, I'm not sure if this is true but it would explain the sockets.<br />
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This board uses a LOT of PLDs (Programmable logic devices), all secured and none have been dumped or replicated from what I can tell. This was my main concern as one bad PLD and I wouldn't be able to get it going.<br />
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Top Board PLDs<br />
<br />
Location Device Name<br />
U9 PAL20L10 38-01<br />
U42 PAL16R6 37-01<br />
U43 PAL16R4 36-01<br />
U44 PAL16L8 35-01 - Bruteforced, jed file available at <a href="https://wiki.pldarchive.co.uk/">wiki.pldarchive.co.uk</a>.<br />
U54 PAL16L8 41-02 - Bruteforced, jed file available at <a href="https://wiki.pldarchive.co.uk/">wiki.pldarchive.co.uk</a>.<br />
U55 PAL18P8 39-01<br />
U68 PAL18P8 40-01<br />
U74 PAL16R6 19-01 <br />
U75 PAL16R6 18-01<br />
U82 PAL16R6 21-01<br />
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Bottom Board PLDs<br />
<br />
Location Device Name<br />
U16 PAL16L8 03-01 - Bruteforced, jed file available at <a href="https://wiki.pldarchive.co.uk/">wiki.pldarchive.co.uk</a>.<br />
U17 PAL16L8 04-01<br />
U19 PAL20X10 06-01<br />
U21 PAL20X10 05-01<br />
U22 20X8 Programmed to behave like a 74LS461 which can be used instead.<br />
U23 20X8 Programmed to behave like a 74LS461 which can be used instead.<br />
U26 PAL16R8 10-01 <br />
U27 PAL16R8 11-01<br />
U40 PAL16R8 09-01<br />
U42 PAL16R4 08-01<br />
U43 PAL16R8 07-01<br />
U45 20X8 Programmed to behave like a 74LS461 which can be used instead.<br />
U56 20X8 Programmed to behave like a 74LS461 which can be used instead.<br />
U60 20X8 Programmed to behave like a 74LS461 which can be used instead.<br />
U85 PAL16L8 02-22<br />
U96 PAL16L8 01-01 - Bruteforced, jed file available at <a href="https://wiki.pldarchive.co.uk/">wiki.pldarchive.co.uk</a>.<br />
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I bruteforced, created jed files and tested the four PALs I could, this still leaves a lot that cannot currently be replaced but it's a start.<br />
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On to the repair.<br />
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The board would boot from cold and display the title screen but it was cut up into pieces and then would crash. Trying to boot the board again or pressing the reset button would result in vertical lines and the slave cpu resetting.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC-EynPFQN21kzAC91o43mMCA2y8BjYszV8Bnf40Y0cC76RV2Drc9eoCehqPes2NYeXvlS7e7jC8AfxPui3p00wKgnCKdWbXBRQ2oyKx3nazDxmP-TQPdjdSPdcbqQSDT57UB2LFS_Qd8/s1600/sorss.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="747" data-original-width="1000" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC-EynPFQN21kzAC91o43mMCA2y8BjYszV8Bnf40Y0cC76RV2Drc9eoCehqPes2NYeXvlS7e7jC8AfxPui3p00wKgnCKdWbXBRQ2oyKx3nazDxmP-TQPdjdSPdcbqQSDT57UB2LFS_Qd8/s320/sorss.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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When replacing sockets I tested every chip I removed and found two bad 6116 rams and two bad 41464 rams which I replaced. I also found that R1 resistor next to the CPU socket U1 on the bottom board was only soldered on one end and the other end was just touching the pad, it must have been like this since it left the factory, so I soldered that on properly.<br />
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It still behaved the same though, next I found a bad 74LS374 @ U18 on the bottom pcb, replacing this fixed both the graphics and crashing issue.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifOp0b_ZWvXIg8GGWf8S582zILAwKB1HmwBLDGUBf3YCAxZ5Dk4zqWbGMZW7kqwHIanm66ggPZeE8bWtnECpfh8F3TRSNRyDu6YnR0yAz9mUkTS2AwfYsPOgLWlVPM6O7YvX8Mm83EbnQ/s1600/sor.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1500" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifOp0b_ZWvXIg8GGWf8S582zILAwKB1HmwBLDGUBf3YCAxZ5Dk4zqWbGMZW7kqwHIanm66ggPZeE8bWtnECpfh8F3TRSNRyDu6YnR0yAz9mUkTS2AwfYsPOgLWlVPM6O7YvX8Mm83EbnQ/s320/sor.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFNnpWfsfRCN70-8kISGxa8KNFXfVQ4fy09_IWo8hhKJ1ZvgztmwzyFgchq53pCxXkUeB1VUFNfVgr-d6Fh4eUZbmNRWbxgsCbVhDzK_M2tjzTiIs3oDuIvres7g-FikB7Yyz6fKsJQwI/s1600/sorss2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="844" data-original-width="1000" height="270" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFNnpWfsfRCN70-8kISGxa8KNFXfVQ4fy09_IWo8hhKJ1ZvgztmwzyFgchq53pCxXkUeB1VUFNfVgr-d6Fh4eUZbmNRWbxgsCbVhDzK_M2tjzTiIs3oDuIvres7g-FikB7Yyz6fKsJQwI/s320/sorss2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I'll also replace the original battery from 1989 with a new CR2032 coin battery and holder.</div>
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The sound and digital controls all work but I haven't been able to test the steering as I don't have the 'opto coupler' board but hopefully this repair is complete.</div>
Ace`http://www.blogger.com/profile/10513051721033901373noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5898429629910084165.post-78584525613889355892020-02-20T18:31:00.000+00:002020-02-20T18:31:05.475+00:00Guide: Make your own desoldering gun / station filters.Since Hakko put the price of their filters up for my desoldering station (and other models) I've been looking for alternatives.<br />
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RS sell some cheap filters for their rebranded Pro'sKit SS-331H station and the cleaning rods are very good too (much better than Hakko's version). The filters are slightly larger than the ones used on my 474 station though.<br />
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CDJump on the KLOV forums came up with a great solution, using a metal hollow punch meant for leather and a ceramic paper blanket from china (ebay) to cut his own.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg2EHS3QmL3WwVgBpn5rEGNhAG1OCw0PFj6X2-Gg0MXRqQkbMHdWwgvekyAwwvwDrrd0aciZLxhrRoRGrY2L1ujsJvVHAPaS4hq9jRDUgCEID3WQLAUXHnPwrrQRyoLLVV1hMGR9IaFMs/s1600/hollowpunch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg2EHS3QmL3WwVgBpn5rEGNhAG1OCw0PFj6X2-Gg0MXRqQkbMHdWwgvekyAwwvwDrrd0aciZLxhrRoRGrY2L1ujsJvVHAPaS4hq9jRDUgCEID3WQLAUXHnPwrrQRyoLLVV1hMGR9IaFMs/s200/hollowpunch.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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I got two hollow punches to cut down the RS filters, this worked great for the 3mm x 16mm filters used in the station. The filters used in the gun should really be more like 5/6mm thick though. Also the blanket has since sold out so I went looking for something else.<br />
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I found some 3mm and 5mm ceramic paper sheets (A4 size) on ebay which are perfect. A search for ceramic gasket should bring up something similar.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUnOaXdl04wUljHrlCmtaRZEuBMLfYBWeJlzFHN5zTvzRRfj1XiZujFXjo8vyzHhg_kNGuVYRlOWsrqrbl2diCf7gyVw-riqigAyoOJMl2aQajYG_tCj41boVNkxlYG-AFvIinF6Rt0S0/s1600/ceramicpaper.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUnOaXdl04wUljHrlCmtaRZEuBMLfYBWeJlzFHN5zTvzRRfj1XiZujFXjo8vyzHhg_kNGuVYRlOWsrqrbl2diCf7gyVw-riqigAyoOJMl2aQajYG_tCj41boVNkxlYG-AFvIinF6Rt0S0/s320/ceramicpaper.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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From a single sheet I was able to make over 200 filters.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdKso-66RmtZ098zGt4yqYzl350T7Z3b_0MBYaeUkzil27jlkEQDJHbVl54TPHRWyASWzuV0-1lJU0LLyauzxslOdzBxwLpQ83-gciV7w5zdZbcUfJA49mP8CptBuPHmvpFpuu5GIOUjU/s1600/filters.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="921" data-original-width="1000" height="367" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdKso-66RmtZ098zGt4yqYzl350T7Z3b_0MBYaeUkzil27jlkEQDJHbVl54TPHRWyASWzuV0-1lJU0LLyauzxslOdzBxwLpQ83-gciV7w5zdZbcUfJA49mP8CptBuPHmvpFpuu5GIOUjU/s400/filters.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Considering 10 filters from Hakko are £10.75 + £7.50 postage and a sheet that made over 200 was £4.99 including postage, it was quite a saving.</div>
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The hollow punches can also be picked up from ebay for about £5 each.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsR14BSzyqp8VrgZbiXKbrQH60PeFyOQoaa0LdzFNOz3N65L5mnONwG0rR_Zu7B4WgaWeqkPZ3GDHZsCd_gER3p9skRtsNLA3PF_O86_2_oqHy09YpQXwEa9abDCVBZLgBhwM-gBpJ1Xk/s1600/jyokyo46.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="170" data-original-width="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsR14BSzyqp8VrgZbiXKbrQH60PeFyOQoaa0LdzFNOz3N65L5mnONwG0rR_Zu7B4WgaWeqkPZ3GDHZsCd_gER3p9skRtsNLA3PF_O86_2_oqHy09YpQXwEa9abDCVBZLgBhwM-gBpJ1Xk/s1600/jyokyo46.jpg" /></a></div>
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16mm x 3mm (not 15mm as stated on their web site)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxTWEzPdJW_N72T7LfyIXg1Bh5U58903Ysxs0Iw-CateFb6RVRZ8s4E5bjgDY75q2cdjFiKaQ0Am0pA1lXwMsDOUiskgSMj3GKMSZEmpU0a-hPg2J-ZZyWQ8_ao4TCUwdEHzMpRJUjo50/s1600/jyokyo45.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="170" data-original-width="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxTWEzPdJW_N72T7LfyIXg1Bh5U58903Ysxs0Iw-CateFb6RVRZ8s4E5bjgDY75q2cdjFiKaQ0Am0pA1lXwMsDOUiskgSMj3GKMSZEmpU0a-hPg2J-ZZyWQ8_ao4TCUwdEHzMpRJUjo50/s1600/jyokyo45.jpg" /></a></div>
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17mm x 5mm (or 6mm, if you can find it).</div>
Ace`http://www.blogger.com/profile/10513051721033901373noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5898429629910084165.post-35789953818337101842019-10-10T19:57:00.002+01:002019-10-10T20:29:48.836+01:00Street Fighter 2 CE / HF to HF Turbo conversion<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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It's quite well known and documented that you can convert Street Fighter 2 Champion Edition to Hyper Fighting by simply replacing the three program eproms (6F, 7F and 8F).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2A2S71DX8Dnr1U_rNjI8_MRPdImh1Dj-s5JqaUekmBudLtDGwRBaRdheOqMTpzpG8AX19ieFK9GrxQSo-Tl7bCVFfsZaOiZ5tpxYx-d4yEqNzDcRImMES1Hrg-1X6wHTsrkx_BrI9yoo/s1600/turbo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1122" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2A2S71DX8Dnr1U_rNjI8_MRPdImh1Dj-s5JqaUekmBudLtDGwRBaRdheOqMTpzpG8AX19ieFK9GrxQSo-Tl7bCVFfsZaOiZ5tpxYx-d4yEqNzDcRImMES1Hrg-1X6wHTsrkx_BrI9yoo/s320/turbo.jpg" width="224" /></a></div>
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Turbo Hyper Fighting upgrade / conversion isn't quite as simple, it also requres three graphics roms to be replaced. You will need the sf2hfj rom from mame (and sf2hf if going from CE).</div>
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First burn the program rom 23 location 8F on to a 27C4096/27C4002. Next burn the four graphics roms 3C - 6C on to 27C400 eproms and now for the part that caused me some confusion, roms 4C and 5C need to be swapped, so 4C in 5C and 5C in 4C.</div>
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If you started with a Champion Edition board you'll also need to replace eproms 21 and 22 (6F, 7F).</div>
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I also suggest installing a 12mhz oscillator in place of the original 10mhz if you don't have a 'dash' motherboard, so that the game runs are the correct speed.</div>
Ace`http://www.blogger.com/profile/10513051721033901373noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5898429629910084165.post-11337341709222750932019-08-27T12:36:00.003+01:002019-08-27T12:48:30.982+01:00Punch-Out! pcb repairThis board was mostly working but had a messed up background and no sprites on the bottom screen. The top screen was perfect apart from the missing logo.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4n5BXkfFvR1kvplEruPdifdWduDFR16MrNtQQUaJzISNScDcxRxXm5RBypgb9G0iiO684q7TkKBUXDhs6-GXiFY7sMusdrNsAVR0t4vPElSoR2T-Jw7NKclJKo_uP-lYmeDfBYExD78c/s1600/punchout0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="591" data-original-width="800" height="295" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4n5BXkfFvR1kvplEruPdifdWduDFR16MrNtQQUaJzISNScDcxRxXm5RBypgb9G0iiO684q7TkKBUXDhs6-GXiFY7sMusdrNsAVR0t4vPElSoR2T-Jw7NKclJKo_uP-lYmeDfBYExD78c/s400/punchout0.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1r5pSbyfxjNIetumnI8dOmBh4ar-sC80ibMOq22knNig8XemTIxux3RXUP8SSLaNNtwuh0EAHPHE_7d0Qu30gVuqnu1zFNwJu9vvnqyCMJsUXyfotwqFq2Xe4mfkLzDTLrIhhNGURxRI/s1600/punchout2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1r5pSbyfxjNIetumnI8dOmBh4ar-sC80ibMOq22knNig8XemTIxux3RXUP8SSLaNNtwuh0EAHPHE_7d0Qu30gVuqnu1zFNwJu9vvnqyCMJsUXyfotwqFq2Xe4mfkLzDTLrIhhNGURxRI/s400/punchout2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Most times powering on the board it also had what looked like an interference issue.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3m6bhk0Up3fadohmVZr1XxrDxy-rEkEF6niABdNO8ME_4V2P42KwNmzfpqGORt3dLXcUYlYdDTddGRLn3Pboj1LjJSf-N4l6V0vG5J6JcuT_Q0DdtNglAxu0UKtmnFtEdd2v-Jt9ov3M/s1600/punchout2a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="613" data-original-width="800" height="306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3m6bhk0Up3fadohmVZr1XxrDxy-rEkEF6niABdNO8ME_4V2P42KwNmzfpqGORt3dLXcUYlYdDTddGRLn3Pboj1LjJSf-N4l6V0vG5J6JcuT_Q0DdtNglAxu0UKtmnFtEdd2v-Jt9ov3M/s400/punchout2a.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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As you can see (just about) the background is now fixed, this was a bad 74LS244 @ 3K on the back / small pcb.</div>
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The rest of the issues were on the middle / graphics pcb, first replacing a bad 74LS273 @ 1N brought back glass joe and the main logo.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkKM-riRTUhk2yDsmoQeCCkgwzuhZE5sZZxCbQ8qj87u9OOUriOa7UVM6y9nBCBblLyn3EryxiiOGhGih29XLg5CsipDFaTi2r-wenDr99dsZOEIJG2pojMshY6mAas7OsuxQGqq88edc/s1600/punchout3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="601" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkKM-riRTUhk2yDsmoQeCCkgwzuhZE5sZZxCbQ8qj87u9OOUriOa7UVM6y9nBCBblLyn3EryxiiOGhGih29XLg5CsipDFaTi2r-wenDr99dsZOEIJG2pojMshY6mAas7OsuxQGqq88edc/s400/punchout3.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I also found two 74LS04s with floating outputs @ 1J and 4E replacing these fixed the 'interference' issue.</div>
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Replacing two more 74LS273s @ 7H and 8J brought back the player (green guy).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheFJ7vXe9LdFxKXy_u8m0ZLOr7ObqlqYRb2JdYyJigny0YI1Ztoovfd6IBTBcTosZJ1wkP1p0q8A4pu0QPDDZszpAnwJ8pzf73xZw85fyIwzUNw3JkgQi4JLKLXshXZtSZh1TE1LakJM0/s1600/punchout4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="615" data-original-width="800" height="307" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheFJ7vXe9LdFxKXy_u8m0ZLOr7ObqlqYRb2JdYyJigny0YI1Ztoovfd6IBTBcTosZJ1wkP1p0q8A4pu0QPDDZszpAnwJ8pzf73xZw85fyIwzUNw3JkgQi4JLKLXshXZtSZh1TE1LakJM0/s400/punchout4.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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This just left one small intermittent graphics issue with glass joe and the logo flickering and having black lines through them every so often.</div>
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I noticed some previous work on the board, someone had replaced the four 74F161s @ 1F,2F,3F and 4F with 74S163s. The one at 1F was rusty and when removing it from the socket one of its pins fell off, I soldered on a lead from a resistor just so I could test it and sure enough it failed.</div>
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I replaced all the 74S163s with proper F161s, they seemed to be working okay but I have a bunch of the correct F161 anyway.</div>
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In the same area of the board three 74F283s had been replaced with standard 74LS283s, I removed these and installed the correct F (fast) chips to finish off the repair.</div>
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I hadn't worked on a Punch-Out pcb before, this is the basic adapter I knocked up. It uses a Mike's Arcade Nintendo jamma adapter to invert the colours and amplify the audio. I basically copied what Adam @onecircuit came up with for his setup. :)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRRaGA-etqKhRKydUNHlGJ0qFQ8rQ4MMF4j7pkjK6IRv_PGfgEQKMTB2wN2ZJGjZqbyIFsbYp4CcUR2nlNeEnnI_QqV3ix9GcyCIKj6B2Yn_5PE4evARhOOv1x0dxNhUEMM9idbAjWwXQ/s1600/adapter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="836" data-original-width="1200" height="277" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRRaGA-etqKhRKydUNHlGJ0qFQ8rQ4MMF4j7pkjK6IRv_PGfgEQKMTB2wN2ZJGjZqbyIFsbYp4CcUR2nlNeEnnI_QqV3ix9GcyCIKj6B2Yn_5PE4evARhOOv1x0dxNhUEMM9idbAjWwXQ/s400/adapter.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The switches are to flip between top and bottom monitors and the other switches between the two audio channels.</div>
Ace`http://www.blogger.com/profile/10513051721033901373noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5898429629910084165.post-53684244944824576882019-06-01T20:47:00.000+01:002019-06-01T20:47:37.439+01:00Sega self test mistakesThought I'd note this quickly as it has caused some confusion on a couple recent board repairs.<br /><br />Outrun - IC75 in self test is actually IC57.<br /><br />GP Rider / Afterburner - IC30 in self test is actually IC37 (315-5248).Ace`http://www.blogger.com/profile/10513051721033901373noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5898429629910084165.post-41886472425010977822019-05-03T17:19:00.000+01:002019-05-03T19:39:52.869+01:00Missile Command - 4164 RAM upgradePurists look away.<br />
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Missile Command originally uses 8 x 4116 rams, and 4116 rams are terrible. They don't just die (a lot) they often take out other parts when they die. It's best to replace them with 4164s which run a lot cooler and are far more reliable, they also don't require +12v and -5v like 4116s.<br />
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It's already common practice to replace them on Williams boards but doesn't seem to be so common on Atari boards, not yet anyway.<br />
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Since there's no tried and tested mod for Missile Command I spent some time looking at the board to see the cleanest and most reversible way of doing the modification. You can mod the ram itself but this looks awful and not practical for some collectors to replace them where as anyone can drop in a stock chip.<br />
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Here's how I did it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLjxMGys6eDQWP1CkfGGO0XD2cvhteLFQvWasbBUZD-J51bG-ttKuAdOPwEhRcPl11b-3_Dk5KqtfrE1lXsHpG6TXwdBp12OtvOqFPT4Ap9l2H_TsT7BDdvvVSjsicCZ7lXCA953P-yU0/s1600/missile_4164.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="817" data-original-width="1600" height="204" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLjxMGys6eDQWP1CkfGGO0XD2cvhteLFQvWasbBUZD-J51bG-ttKuAdOPwEhRcPl11b-3_Dk5KqtfrE1lXsHpG6TXwdBp12OtvOqFPT4Ap9l2H_TsT7BDdvvVSjsicCZ7lXCA953P-yU0/s400/missile_4164.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The cuts need to line up with the via on the back of the board where the 12v and -5v come through, if you hold the board up to light you can see it a lot clearer and mark where you need to cut with a sharpie.Ace`http://www.blogger.com/profile/10513051721033901373noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5898429629910084165.post-9787359528774913982019-03-23T15:45:00.000+00:002019-03-23T15:57:57.389+00:00Outrun pcb repairI did this repair a few days ago now and forgot to take certain pictures but I'll document what I can. This Outrun was watchdogging (resetting) and had a smeared red and blue image on screen which I forgot to photograph.<br />
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Firing it up with the extremely helpful test roms and a known working video board I could see a lot of bad rams on the CPU board, the watchdog was kicking in before the test would finish but I could see all I needed to for now. IC55 was failing every so often too so I replaced them all apart from IC114 and IC130 which are made by Fujitsu and hold up very well (unlike their TTL).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ0NA8eisUMDKt719sERN2XQ_pG2HvAap8IJk4WeZyoRWfjUe_UToKS16uA9UwTZhMCbQK2bVXre5Y37UvvgKeJ4-HDqZjrhT6FIMHawSJdNqxrV2pAv88v_NhIqHSACjZ_Jm_lq4oU7Q/s1600/or1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="630" data-original-width="800" height="315" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ0NA8eisUMDKt719sERN2XQ_pG2HvAap8IJk4WeZyoRWfjUe_UToKS16uA9UwTZhMCbQK2bVXre5Y37UvvgKeJ4-HDqZjrhT6FIMHawSJdNqxrV2pAv88v_NhIqHSACjZ_Jm_lq4oU7Q/s400/or1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Swapping back to the original video board I could just about see that both palette rams (IC92 and IC95) were failing. With these replaced I got this image.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl_88ED9xmhYx0spiJpQ9HMgxsjHlGlDXL5uVj8PYm31yPzYMlMkL-SUadMUZigw-xN0uCetJvZ24-eKYyKL79BP9rJe4qcRd-WqhDH3QMPJ_fX-4XnDyfgzPHvw8WRfCR-x1A3NE-ZOE/s1600/or2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="618" data-original-width="800" height="308" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl_88ED9xmhYx0spiJpQ9HMgxsjHlGlDXL5uVj8PYm31yPzYMlMkL-SUadMUZigw-xN0uCetJvZ24-eKYyKL79BP9rJe4qcRd-WqhDH3QMPJ_fX-4XnDyfgzPHvw8WRfCR-x1A3NE-ZOE/s400/or2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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This was caused by two bad roms opr-10267 and opr-10268 if I remember correctly.<br />
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With these replaced the image was perfect apart from there being no road on the left side (again I forgot to photograph this).<br />
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The road issue was fixed by replacing a bad rom on the top board opr-10186 at location IC47.<br />
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This fixed everything graphically and the controls worked too.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1lvJuE_lMT35DG7ujYb4oJ4PGmymMr8P3hM5AB9dDyE4DfDJOQ-7HYR_W8tW94Q7W5uddy5Lt78tbbEfleCr-BpH4NriPtotOV3D_C9_h_ZPhO52W1NIkLsE1bez_8oCFZpvl7xJH8oc/s1600/gor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="599" data-original-width="800" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1lvJuE_lMT35DG7ujYb4oJ4PGmymMr8P3hM5AB9dDyE4DfDJOQ-7HYR_W8tW94Q7W5uddy5Lt78tbbEfleCr-BpH4NriPtotOV3D_C9_h_ZPhO52W1NIkLsE1bez_8oCFZpvl7xJH8oc/s400/gor.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Now the problem was the lack of sound, nothing completely quiet. The clock signal for the Z80 was stuck. Looking at the schematics I see the last thing I want to see.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdo3lTfz9elyCrx4qbgtCBu7_HgcG60p9IYHgq7x-M7X_3GhCSywZtGZeOdpALv-YP5vCcqw998qG0Szaow7FUGwdypS4z3-vIV2g7q31QtuC1h2qDTjweUgf1cRKOGhGf138Fn2vdjdw/s1600/or3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1229" data-original-width="823" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdo3lTfz9elyCrx4qbgtCBu7_HgcG60p9IYHgq7x-M7X_3GhCSywZtGZeOdpALv-YP5vCcqw998qG0Szaow7FUGwdypS4z3-vIV2g7q31QtuC1h2qDTjweUgf1cRKOGhGf138Fn2vdjdw/s400/or3.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>
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That the clock is created by the 315-5218 surface mount custom chip. I tried a little experiment and created a 4mhz clock from the 16mhz clock using a 74LS74 and fed it into the Z80 to see if there was any life left in the custom but unfortunately there wasn't.<br />
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Here's the custom removed and pads cleaned up ready for the donor.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2284_XgnNnqWzFcBBRQ38ar8QsVoPRDzTPrKpudyKglfuqS2azV3TMPLS9JfM64AubXqXpIvlzCEx_E9s34hKChP_gNSlJW7LuSFJkiUfWT2i3A7fbK9g6Vl-2eSQ7cdg9I-OHqkEvZM/s1600/or4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1112" data-original-width="1284" height="346" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2284_XgnNnqWzFcBBRQ38ar8QsVoPRDzTPrKpudyKglfuqS2azV3TMPLS9JfM64AubXqXpIvlzCEx_E9s34hKChP_gNSlJW7LuSFJkiUfWT2i3A7fbK9g6Vl-2eSQ7cdg9I-OHqkEvZM/s400/or4.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The new custom fitted, originally from a System X board.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG31_Jq245ebRp16k_2Ngpd6-xFoehbNRewym-a1x2Y_vMUYh-6gT0rt4XZTCEDB6NdssaQC7YxqRZO3Gc6l4aTf9jeWLxdM6L_neIi_vejqo66kMVJ9cPoVUwYBMl768MfKg0Mv2h_ds/s1600/or5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="567" data-original-width="800" height="282" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG31_Jq245ebRp16k_2Ngpd6-xFoehbNRewym-a1x2Y_vMUYh-6gT0rt4XZTCEDB6NdssaQC7YxqRZO3Gc6l4aTf9jeWLxdM6L_neIi_vejqo66kMVJ9cPoVUwYBMl768MfKg0Mv2h_ds/s400/or5.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Still no sound whatsoever but the clock was back and the Z80 was a lot more active. I decided to hook up the Fluke 9010a to the sound cpu (Z80) and see if the ram was good. First thing I do is a bus test and it reported A15 stuck high, this was caused by the main sound eprom epr-10187 which is interesting as the eprom programmer had no issue with it.<br />
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With the rom replaced there was still no sound, the fluke reported that the ram was fine so I moved onto the PCM eproms and rams. The two rams failed out of circuit testing and were replaced and the maskrom at IC70 failed and was replaced too.<br />
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This finally brought back the PCM sounds that were slightly too fast and getting cut off early but finally I could hear something.<br />
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I used a sound probe on the op-amp TL084 (IC125) and nothing was going in, this traced back to the YM2151 and sure enough nothing was coming out of it. I took a replacement from a System X donor board and all sounds were back and everything is working perfectly.<br />
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Repair complete.Ace`http://www.blogger.com/profile/10513051721033901373noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5898429629910084165.post-56591344520512032032019-03-19T19:33:00.001+00:002019-03-19T19:37:22.076+00:00Vectrex transformer repairI've been after a Vectrex forever but the right deal never seemed to come along plus I didn't like the idea of having a vector tube sent through the post. A local one finally dropped in my lap and with a nice selection of games too.<br />
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The only problem was it was completely dead, checking the easy stuff first the fuse in the plug and the one inside were both fine. I could tell right away from the missing and mixture of screws that someone had already been inside before but luckily they seemed to give up when they saw the fuse was fine and they didn't damage anything.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5_4VFfF-IEaVIOjL7QFCPrRE8Z1RThh3aRHd19fixuYFFo6C1RxTFc4hQfPX6mtd8__xZY9CodyqaZ4k8tSyrPqdzhdk5PAH2c8c4W-W4HoNczHX3PSokMaD5j2w9hjST2HXiRlNLROY/s1600/vec.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5_4VFfF-IEaVIOjL7QFCPrRE8Z1RThh3aRHd19fixuYFFo6C1RxTFc4hQfPX6mtd8__xZY9CodyqaZ4k8tSyrPqdzhdk5PAH2c8c4W-W4HoNczHX3PSokMaD5j2w9hjST2HXiRlNLROY/s400/vec.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Checking the output of the transformer and it was completely dead, a bit of research online and this is quite a common issue. I had a look for a replacement but the one maplin used to sell which is known to be an ideal replacement they no longer stock. I found another on ebay that was a good match but rated for 4amps where as the original is rated for 3amps (or possibly 2?) I was worried it would be too big and require some case modification that I'd prefer to avoid.<br />
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While continuing my search I found this very informative video here <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zIqCVLveSys&t=1322s">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zIqCVLveSys&t=1322s</a> which shows how to repair the original transformer. It seemed that my transformer might be fine and the only issue is a bad thermal fuse hidden in the windings. You don't have to dig too far into the transformer to bypass or replace it either.<br />
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Here's my teardown, bypass of the fuse and rebuild.<br />
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The glue is all dried up so it was very easy to pry open, I dug into the insulation snipped the two wires for the fuse twisted them together and soldered them. Then a small bit of heat shrink sleeving (not necessary).<br />
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I sealed it all back up and fitted / soldered it back into the vectrex it fired up first time with no other issues.<br />
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Thinking about it afterwards I didn't have to tear into the transformer as far as I did, with the metal cover removed from the 18v side the two wires for the fuse are visible at the edge, I could have just soldered a wire or old capacitor leg across them or if I wanted to be fancy a new thermal fuse.<br />
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The thermal fuse really isn't needed though, there's already two fuses on the 240v side.<br />
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So there you have it, repair your old transformer don't replace it and a big thank you to Hugo B. on youtube. I don't think anyone knew about the hidden fuse until his video, I certainly didn't. :) Ace`http://www.blogger.com/profile/10513051721033901373noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5898429629910084165.post-90118832239172348432019-02-26T16:39:00.003+00:002019-02-26T16:48:03.056+00:00Block Block to Pang conversionBlock Block was Capcoms answer to Arkanoid and it's an okay version at best, a much better game on the same hardware is Pang / Buster Bros. This conversion is pretty straight forward but you will need to make a jamma adapter even if you have one of these.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw0MtornspZwo7ZciiXKuZMMNDWbAfJC_Q9KWrxBl18WUWWPllOMMW39qxa9AeDvpBuuwJO0dEOP3GHlwCvBwEIcKUFbaBzB9cNh7j0ckfGn8ULQl21dkFfLhh9iKh6YSvddMxDN9g8ys/s1600/adaptor1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="365" data-original-width="800" height="182" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw0MtornspZwo7ZciiXKuZMMNDWbAfJC_Q9KWrxBl18WUWWPllOMMW39qxa9AeDvpBuuwJO0dEOP3GHlwCvBwEIcKUFbaBzB9cNh7j0ckfGn8ULQl21dkFfLhh9iKh6YSvddMxDN9g8ys/s400/adaptor1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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This is the official Block Block jamma adaptor but it won't work with Pang as the controls are different.<br />
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Here's the pinout<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmJiD8IpuhmUha1G7LxnfyyhRfb_B5UuXDFjidS1V7xHWuv1ZmI_5SPD0TeQj3HghfsVLkyvDNsjd-41oAyNRlpG5XLayy3ey_9rqVSiuaiSJA1z7Xg6AI-saTDPYFRg950gufWY3q15Y/s1600/pangpinout.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="939" data-original-width="505" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmJiD8IpuhmUha1G7LxnfyyhRfb_B5UuXDFjidS1V7xHWuv1ZmI_5SPD0TeQj3HghfsVLkyvDNsjd-41oAyNRlpG5XLayy3ey_9rqVSiuaiSJA1z7Xg6AI-saTDPYFRg950gufWY3q15Y/s640/pangpinout.jpg" width="344" /></a></div>
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This is how mine turned out, I left out 21,22,Z and a since eight +5v wires is a bit overkill.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmVMq22v7CSipqpDTNAC7cHeQirmAcfgQZmDKoWESK2SSNLO2DsVslGsHsEhUIIjTDvsjEqL1_iNDN-H9UWTBf5Ns5OJZ8V-kKnCzH7r968KHhicwBigcf9FjovhQo4jubHSKazp9XeuQ/s1600/adaptor2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="423" data-original-width="800" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmVMq22v7CSipqpDTNAC7cHeQirmAcfgQZmDKoWESK2SSNLO2DsVslGsHsEhUIIjTDvsjEqL1_iNDN-H9UWTBf5Ns5OJZ8V-kKnCzH7r968KHhicwBigcf9FjovhQo4jubHSKazp9XeuQ/s400/adaptor2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Now on to the conversion itself, mine had been stripped of eproms and all markings on the board suggests non jedec type 27C301 eproms would be needed but actually four need to be the standard 27C010 type.<br />
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So 4x 27C301 4x 27C010 and 1x 27C256 you can obviously blank and reuse the original eproms if your board is still complete.<br />
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There's two options as far as which version of Pang to run you can either use the decrypted version from Arcadehacker posted <a href="http://arcadehacker.blogspot.com/2014/12/capcom-kabuki-cpu-part-3.html">here</a> or you can use his method to reprogram the original Kabuki cpu that requires an Arduino Uno and a battery to be fitted to the board. I went for the easy first option but may try the other option at a later date to see how Super Pang handles on Block Block hardware (it should work fine).<br />
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With the no battery / decrypted roms option you still use the Kabuki cpu but you need to either have 28 sticking out of the socket or remove the resistor at R40 (which is what I did).<br />
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Decrypted roms<br />
pang6.bin - 27C256 location 14F<br />
pang7.bin - 27C301 location 15F<br />
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Now you need the mame rom pang.zip for the rest of the conversion. Mame usually has useful file names with locations but not in the case of pang.<br />
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pang09.bin - 27C010 location 8H<br />
bb3.bin - 27C010 location 9H<br />
pang11.bin - 27C010 location 8J<br />
bb5.bin - 27C010 location 9J<br />
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bb10.bin -27C301 location 2J<br />
bb9.bin -27C301 location 3J<br />
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bb1.bin -27C301 location 2D<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrR79wpshsJPRqwZhzkXgNgnXHXPEkxj031GuHN8-8t4IrsMRiQoHHwTjrG9O4c8Iau1rH9bv4EpzUA4V8VqBsJnR2HpCeBK0pRIzbxIh7c-iae1DieulRJHJ58ciM_M4gJnIBudLIMCk/s1600/pangss.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="587" data-original-width="800" height="291" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrR79wpshsJPRqwZhzkXgNgnXHXPEkxj031GuHN8-8t4IrsMRiQoHHwTjrG9O4c8Iau1rH9bv4EpzUA4V8VqBsJnR2HpCeBK0pRIzbxIh7c-iae1DieulRJHJ58ciM_M4gJnIBudLIMCk/s400/pangss.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-xcWle23u3PiUOMeTG8ni8FRAmjTdMznSuIeI3Hnma0fhw2aId1fRYpPa8DC4FJb4f7qTNefsnIm1zX319eJ5ue3vMbStdKFsjkqGalzUIXBGUneXEMz0btxSYBVYl0hXPXXdO5Ha0Wc/s1600/pangss2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="617" data-original-width="800" height="307" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-xcWle23u3PiUOMeTG8ni8FRAmjTdMznSuIeI3Hnma0fhw2aId1fRYpPa8DC4FJb4f7qTNefsnIm1zX319eJ5ue3vMbStdKFsjkqGalzUIXBGUneXEMz0btxSYBVYl0hXPXXdO5Ha0Wc/s400/pangss2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Conversion complete.</div>
Ace`http://www.blogger.com/profile/10513051721033901373noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5898429629910084165.post-65725861765009907422019-02-19T18:30:00.000+00:002019-02-19T18:30:44.182+00:00Air Buster pcb repairThis repair has been going on for quite a while, first the custom for the I/O near the edge connector was missing (snapped off) when I got the board and the custom CALC1 chip was also bad. I bought a working Gals Panic off ebay for both these parts.<br />
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I also had to replace several missing and bad maskroms with eproms, this got the board running but it had a very annoying intermittent issue with the background flickering and disappearing.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzKloQVqMd_mpxf0Xr142hlAh5gp6JMwlj4AYyFgN7za4BUxxxo76ofzcZv6Ml8_QN7dY2vUMNoQLPlb_KXpzFWJvgRAE38W9-bJcmAC6bDVWMZXJqz-mqOcFWbzCdatWuHuSWEGkoPaw/s1600/abfault.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="664" data-original-width="800" height="331" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzKloQVqMd_mpxf0Xr142hlAh5gp6JMwlj4AYyFgN7za4BUxxxo76ofzcZv6Ml8_QN7dY2vUMNoQLPlb_KXpzFWJvgRAE38W9-bJcmAC6bDVWMZXJqz-mqOcFWbzCdatWuHuSWEGkoPaw/s400/abfault.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Half the cloud is missing, it would also effect the buildings later in the level.</div>
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Probing around with my logic probe while the fault was visible I was eventually able to hear the issue. Thanks to my logic probe having a audio / beeper feature, I confirmed on the scope I was getting an invalid output from one of the 74LS352s.</div>
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The bad 352 removed and waiting for a new one. Any other TTL on this board I have plenty of spares but not a single 352 so I had to order some and wait.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCc9d3fNC8fQ7tuY25O9pl8duVnqmJs_omIHvrGHLSChpq3q-bs9Rz3uDL95ppMPNLch8LCClGGmnuTp7VEuqKdItURtkCqO82xeE0T68qdrXLfADM7hqEjCEejj_sRt3-fWs1EVogysg/s1600/abfault2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="657" data-original-width="800" height="327" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCc9d3fNC8fQ7tuY25O9pl8duVnqmJs_omIHvrGHLSChpq3q-bs9Rz3uDL95ppMPNLch8LCClGGmnuTp7VEuqKdItURtkCqO82xeE0T68qdrXLfADM7hqEjCEejj_sRt3-fWs1EVogysg/s400/abfault2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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With the new 352 fitted the background is restored, repair complete.</div>
Ace`http://www.blogger.com/profile/10513051721033901373noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5898429629910084165.post-66128180755869097402019-01-23T15:49:00.000+00:002019-01-23T15:50:58.602+00:00Sunset Riders pcb repairI got this pcb in a trade, it was described as not working. When It arrived it was confirmed not working, it just displayed a white flashing screen over and over again as it was constantly resetting (watch dogging). First thing I checked was the roms, they were in the wrong sockets but otherwise fine. Putting them in the correct sockets made no difference.<br />
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I then probed the main 68000 cpu and noticed a lot of stuck and floating address lines. I desoldered the 68000 (fun), this is the first time I've ever seen a 68k cpu go bad. Sunset Riders uses a 16mhz 68000 which I didn't have (the ones I have are only rated 8- 10 mhz) so I borrowed one from another konami board for now.<br />
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This got the board booting but it failed to get past self test, it complained about the eeprom and 2F / 3F. Powering off, holding down the test switch and powering on again fixed the eeprom issue but not 2F / 3F.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_pjSljMmGDktRPmrJfZCvAOnNb_TEm4WRkLRXQvLFTib8TwGy6FXVaTXQq4gXcJqxDqxz9u-qG7077eiCysL0LdsYXFrkyVtmdlETKj-owLmjupxuKGRN_hMBTMjxQE5ENTAVcGmjN4E/s1600/ssriders.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="625" data-original-width="800" height="312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_pjSljMmGDktRPmrJfZCvAOnNb_TEm4WRkLRXQvLFTib8TwGy6FXVaTXQq4gXcJqxDqxz9u-qG7077eiCysL0LdsYXFrkyVtmdlETKj-owLmjupxuKGRN_hMBTMjxQE5ENTAVcGmjN4E/s400/ssriders.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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2F is the sound eprom which was corrupt but burning a new one with the correct data from mame made no difference. 3F is the 6116 ram for the sound section. I desoldered the ram but it tested fine, I started probing around the sound section and again found more stuck address lines on the cpu (Z80).<br />
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I replaced the Z80 and the board now passed self test everything looked good but the sound was just a constant noise with odd samples playing randomly. Interestingly the maskrom test wouldn't complete either, it just crashed after a few seconds. The only thing that made any sense to be causing this fault was the konami 053260 custom.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqnx77PET_LSYXBRo6A5YOnVa4xPbtBXJv2JIUbYxbGKUMcjMWt_QUkLZ3l9sZ0qVhzerDV5lmUB3rRzQKVKZdyxKYLdEJU25zinE_Wx4cCmUeBSfhNwunBazqRwGOZ5QA1wwuoy6rTFY/s1600/ssriders2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="909" data-original-width="1000" height="362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqnx77PET_LSYXBRo6A5YOnVa4xPbtBXJv2JIUbYxbGKUMcjMWt_QUkLZ3l9sZ0qVhzerDV5lmUB3rRzQKVKZdyxKYLdEJU25zinE_Wx4cCmUeBSfhNwunBazqRwGOZ5QA1wwuoy6rTFY/s400/ssriders2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I removed the 053260 chip and then took a working donor from a Golfing Greats pcb, this fixed the sound completely.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS3iE42eGHY1aauSETCQG-3acZY5MkHYqg-XwwDRaD6zvbQ6Al9CsaWdwhEKzKOhu5jyCZvvKgTXQHsmlSbPaY8DaZ447g0Rt2ff7-Ztc4EM_BkpcXSV1MSUkhbDDWJAtJ0IvHl3Z9_3s/s1600/ssriders3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="608" data-original-width="800" height="303" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS3iE42eGHY1aauSETCQG-3acZY5MkHYqg-XwwDRaD6zvbQ6Al9CsaWdwhEKzKOhu5jyCZvvKgTXQHsmlSbPaY8DaZ447g0Rt2ff7-Ztc4EM_BkpcXSV1MSUkhbDDWJAtJ0IvHl3Z9_3s/s400/ssriders3.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Repair complete.Ace`http://www.blogger.com/profile/10513051721033901373noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5898429629910084165.post-21339418152291641052018-12-12T17:38:00.000+00:002018-12-12T17:38:25.164+00:00Gemini Wing pcb repairI've had this original Gemini Wing pcb on the shelf for years, the main issue was the lack of schematics and that Tecmo covered all the traces much like Capcom did with some of their early games. I picked up a cheap bootleg from ebay to help with this repair.<br />
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The bootleg is such a close copy I was able to run the top board with a bootleg bottom board and vice versa. The main issue turned out to be a 'slightly' faulty Z80. I've never seen anything like this, it passes in my chip tester and works on most other boards, ZX Spectrum etc but putting it back in Gemini Wing it refused to run.<br />
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With a new cpu in place it ran but with missing player / enemy sprites and no sound. The sound issue was due to a missing M5205 (quite hard to find these days, also used on Double Dragon). With this replaced the sound returned and just left the sprite issue.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRFSS3lveB4eP5si4V3-qK3I3KTVnLlCkemKD7cKpp40EDswX0GXp6dVQZubrIgMUqlMYLzQEadHQi0DjYUhAKiSTZS53MM8zIIRCqKE4uAuhYpEfGytWWMi5KhuZMUU1h12GNcUjroGA/s1600/gemini.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1215" data-original-width="1000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRFSS3lveB4eP5si4V3-qK3I3KTVnLlCkemKD7cKpp40EDswX0GXp6dVQZubrIgMUqlMYLzQEadHQi0DjYUhAKiSTZS53MM8zIIRCqKE4uAuhYpEfGytWWMi5KhuZMUU1h12GNcUjroGA/s400/gemini.jpg" width="328" /></a></div>
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I found two LS257s on the bottom board with floating inputs, I traced this back using the bootleg board to a LS193. 193s aren't something I've ever needed before so didn't have any stocked but luckily I found one on a scrap board.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5m-D4QXxCOo_u5qJJhtl47ORdqIKtUs8e0peu_nV9_f-ZpGYQ7rPznm3M3Nw-hO4o2PPG7gtI3AvY8aPg97x4D8_iyhFBHwCfa89oxN41-b3SpVHa6BNzK7YuATuME3iHxeYuRW0OgEg/s1600/gemini2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1183" data-original-width="1000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5m-D4QXxCOo_u5qJJhtl47ORdqIKtUs8e0peu_nV9_f-ZpGYQ7rPznm3M3Nw-hO4o2PPG7gtI3AvY8aPg97x4D8_iyhFBHwCfa89oxN41-b3SpVHa6BNzK7YuATuME3iHxeYuRW0OgEg/s400/gemini2.jpg" width="337" /></a></div>
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With the new 193 in place the missing sprites returned. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsLx0cUhFhazVL-s58DM7gEU0pu4EmyJ4dYTVv-NAHhNxVwSAGi_scupxIGxKIG1VbA5o6ApMCcO6rlAsXe-OE04p3RfZL-pMQBu84bQAvcmMFZ8eGzGZYLadyq0tBwr-yV8lyU1T9-5I/s1600/193.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="431" data-original-width="700" height="197" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsLx0cUhFhazVL-s58DM7gEU0pu4EmyJ4dYTVv-NAHhNxVwSAGi_scupxIGxKIG1VbA5o6ApMCcO6rlAsXe-OE04p3RfZL-pMQBu84bQAvcmMFZ8eGzGZYLadyq0tBwr-yV8lyU1T9-5I/s320/193.jpg" width="320" /></a> </div>
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Repair complete.Ace`http://www.blogger.com/profile/10513051721033901373noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5898429629910084165.post-2872238309554525652018-11-06T17:01:00.000+00:002018-11-06T17:01:04.130+00:00Phoenix pcb repairThis board appeared to be completely dead at first but it turned out to be running blind. I narrowed this down to the 7407 near the edge of the board, the resistor network it is connected to was getting very hot.<br />
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After removing and replacing the 7407 with a good one I got a monochrome image.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7O8a9xJVCC-nW67CuJUDc_7-N_F7_bRQ2kwwAYJ9Os4MXO4gDsbxCbkxZEkkoL_IxVaJW10Ud5js5zTMky9m5etrfLZcUfhKzI5L6wyc61Bdti_M4_6Zzz4t5MSVCarrpgtqVJxz_1XE/s1600/phnx.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1046" data-original-width="800" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7O8a9xJVCC-nW67CuJUDc_7-N_F7_bRQ2kwwAYJ9Os4MXO4gDsbxCbkxZEkkoL_IxVaJW10Ud5js5zTMky9m5etrfLZcUfhKzI5L6wyc61Bdti_M4_6Zzz4t5MSVCarrpgtqVJxz_1XE/s400/phnx.jpg" width="305" /></a></div>
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I traced this back to the prom at ic41, the green pin was pulsing away but the blue and red pin were both stuck low. The bad 07 obviously took out the prom too.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmd_2JQhumCo7qYCFUB7hpNVD-8OcpBHrGdF0tBRKx103YSwv4T9sd-VatNXmGw4NaR-gkiSyaItDSZ-DJ4zasSoqRE-SMT__033bA5dUWdpvmk8MKwIVK_Q-ZDz8jRXota-YunkQD9FQ/s1600/phnx3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="654" data-original-width="1000" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmd_2JQhumCo7qYCFUB7hpNVD-8OcpBHrGdF0tBRKx103YSwv4T9sd-VatNXmGw4NaR-gkiSyaItDSZ-DJ4zasSoqRE-SMT__033bA5dUWdpvmk8MKwIVK_Q-ZDz8jRXota-YunkQD9FQ/s400/phnx3.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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With a new prom burned and fitted...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUk2zQFQLGKMyYvrkTU6pLIEoI57s87JC2UNTir_tXvVdukAwCDCzqmFnlVdHrAcyk4KkxJVc2Ibe-QGBeShle2njVibtt3tY9zXgZ5LhricIy-Z93Nnk0PbT08j-ecMypjwlqsKy53jM/s1600/phnx2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="986" data-original-width="800" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUk2zQFQLGKMyYvrkTU6pLIEoI57s87JC2UNTir_tXvVdukAwCDCzqmFnlVdHrAcyk4KkxJVc2Ibe-QGBeShle2njVibtt3tY9zXgZ5LhricIy-Z93Nnk0PbT08j-ecMypjwlqsKy53jM/s400/phnx2.jpg" width="323" /></a></div>
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The board is now fully working, repair complete.</div>
Ace`http://www.blogger.com/profile/10513051721033901373noreply@blogger.com0